StephensblackL98

I apologize for my ignorance, first off. That having been said:

1. It appears the torque converter is held to the flywheel by only a few bolts. If I remove the bolts, am I free of the transmission? The transmission will stay in the car.

2. Does the vibration damper have to be removed for clearance? I have the crankshaft pulley off.

3. Does the power steering pump have to be removed, also for clearance? I'd rather leave it on until the engine is removed.

As always, fellows and ladies, thanks for your coaching and knowledge. What a great project.

Fast Glass

Its been several years since I pulled my engine, but here goes.

You'll have to remove the transmission bolts from around the perimeter. Something like 6 bolts I think. The torque convertor is held on by 3 bolts. Pull those, then you can pull the convertor back into the trans to get it out of the way.

The balancer should be able to stay on. As long as theres enough room to move forward to get the block off of the trans alignment pins. I pulled my trans first, then pulled the engine. Some of the others should be able to give you a definate answer.

I unbolted the power sterring pump and left it in the car. Just moved it out of the way to get the engine out.

Aggravated4life

Learning from my mistakes,I think its best to pull the trans out or back it up a little bit,but be sure whatever you do,to support the trans with a jack when its time to pull the motor or it will fall down.Unbolt the converter to flwyeeh bolts and unbolt the 6 bellhousing bolts holding the trans to the engine.

Getting the trans back a little bit aids greatly in removal and reinsatall of the engine.Its more work but less time to drop and put it back.

The balancer will not be a problem.Leave it on.

Once you do all this and see where everything goes and fit,it will be much easier to finish.Label,bag and tag everything you take off or move.
:)

:cheers:

VQT88Vette

Also a good time to invest in a digital camera and take ever possible pictures that you think you will forgot the position of the parts. May be poiting a finger to the part while taking the picture will help to remind what was the intention of the picture.
When Bill wrote bag and lable everythings. He meant it. Lable everthing don't wait until all the nuts and bolts of the particular part are out to bag and lable. YOU WON'T FIND ALL OF IT. I hate to keep running to Sear and parts store to buy the missing bolts/nuts :rolleyes: , and it does add a lot to the total cost of the rebuild


[Modified by VQT88Vette, 6:11 AM 6/1/2003]

VQT88Vette

Also a good time to change all the seal of the trans. It will leak after the engine is back in the car and much harder to replace the seals at that time. Front, rear, shift linkage, and especially the dip stick tube.

Frodo

I just completed the job you propose. I pulled my engine without moving the tranny. Getting it out wasn't too bad, getting it back in was frustrating but moving the tranny back a bit would be pretty frustrating, too. Be sure to support it with a jack the whole time the engine is out. Make sure you have the car parked where you want it since moving the car with the tranny on a jack will be very difficult. While the engine is out you probably ought to remove the torque converter to keep it from just hanging on the front seal and possibly causing damage. The converter is pretty heavy. Replace the seal while you're in there. I unbolted the power steering pump without removing any hoses, just lay it over on the side. Same with the AC compressor. No need to discharge it and cause extra work and expense. Pics and labels are a very good idea. Funny how something that looks so simple and obvious today will look so complicated and foriegn a week, or month as in my case, down the road. Take your time, rush work causes more work.

Good luck!

scorp508

1. Sorry, I have a manual.
2. No it can stay on.
3. Its easier I think to unbolt it and push it out of the way.


:)

Strick

BTW, What are you going to do to your engine when it is out? Are you going to clean and paint the engine compartment once the engine is out? Inquiring minds want to know :yesnod:

:flag :flag :flag

StephensblackL98

Thanks for the help. As always, this place is a wealth of very good advice and information. The plan is a 383, the short block is to be put together by a professional. Jegs has a kit (that has to be balanced by the builder) that sounds good, but I have to also get new injectors, a cam, and roller rockers. And, yes, while the engine is out I want to get the engine bay painted. I'm going to go with a red theme on the motor, as I intend to redo the interior with red accent, as well. And, I want a red Grand Sport stripe, too. While I really miss the car, I feel this may be my shot at "doing it right", so everything I want to do, I will get done. At the rate I'm able to work on it, it's probably going to be six to eight months before it goes back together.