I checked my rear suspension over this evening and discovered my wheel bearings have a small amount of free play. It's probably bad enough that the hubs should be replaced. I'm not hearing any bearing noise in the wheels yet so maybe I'll run them a little longer.

Does anyone out there have experience replacing a rear hub? The GM service manual makes it sound pretty easy but I'm wondering how hard it's going to be getting the bolts out of the hub. Any tips?

What's a rear hub worth now days?

Thanks
:smash:

 

I did mine last fall. breaking the axle nut loose is the hardest part. Have a five foot cheater pipe handy. I did mine on stands, so I couldn't really get under the car, had to remove/install the hub bolts totally blind. You should have some anti-seize compound on the splines, too. Mine were already pretty gloopy, so I just put it back together the way it was. Overall, it's fairly straight forward. $150 or so per hub, maybe less.

 

First, what is a small amount of play?I put new hubs on my 92 and it still seemed to have a minute bit of play.I think I payed $139.99 each from contemporary corvette.It wasn't that bad of a job.If you jack up the rear end, get a very long extension with a swivel end and a torx head that fits your home free. :steering:

 

Well, I estimate I can move the wheel about 3/16" (at the edge of the tire) or so by hand...you know...clunk, clunk, clunk as I rock it back and forth or up/down.

I don't hear any noise at all, maybe I should leave them alone until the winter? I don't drive it anymore than 5,000km (3,100 mi) a year.

 

They're toast.

 

Try jacking on the suspension - that'll help rule out suspension movement. My 150,000 mile bearings had the same amount of play as my brand new bearings.

 

My suggestion is removing the hub carrier assembly from the car. If you're not working on a lift, its a PITA to get to the TORX head bolts and I wouldn't want to strip any of the heads on those babies. Work bench makes it much simpler.

 

The big hub nut is 36mm. There are three T55 torx which attach from the rear. I removed them with everything in place, had to use an couple extensions and a u-joint on my impact gun. Even then it was still a PITA!

You can bearly see one of the torx in this pic.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I was taking a look tonight. I think I'll remove the axle shaft to give me some room to work. It's about time I changed the U-joints anyway. Once the axle is out of the way I think I should be able to get on the torx bolts with an impact gun.

:hurray: :hurray:

 

does anyone know if any of the auto parts chains carry wheel bearings with a lifetime warranty??

 

Pepboy, $139.99 + tax. :thumbs:

 

hey chaos on wheels, do you have any more pics of your car?? i like your color combination, never seen that one before. :cheers: :cheers:

 

I just replaced the left hub and it can be a hell of a job if the half shafts are not removed. Just have patience and make sure you have a #50 torx bit and a good breaker bar. I paid $139 US at Checker.

Good luck

 

Awesome, goin there tommorow.....Thanks !!! :thumbs:

 

Just make sure you ASK about the warranty first, I've heard rumors of some stores not offering it. The one by me does so I dunno. :)

 

I just replaced the left hub and it can be a hell of a job if the half shafts are not removed. Just have patience and make sure you have a #55 torx bit and a good breaker bar. I paid $139 US at Checker.

Good luck

 

Amen to that. I highly recommened a first-timer doing this remove the halfshaft so you don't break 5 torx bits before going out and buying a heavy duty one. :)

 

I forgot. There is a thin washer that goes between the hub assy and the spindle assy. It seemed to be a dealer only item and you might want to have one on hand when you replace your hub. they are about $7 from the dealer and the part number is 14076924. Mine was worn out and it took a few extra days to fix waiting for the part.

Good Luck

 

All corvette hubs start to loosen up the minute they are put on the car. Slight play is normal. It won't be problem if its a street driver. Changing the rear
hub is a b___h. First you may need the biggest breaker bar and 6' piece of pipe along with a 36mm socket the break free the axle nut. You may also find that the nut has welded itself to the axle. When this happens you have to cut off the nut which is recessed in the hub. Use a Dremel. If this happens you have to replace the axle. Take note, the axle is different on almost every year so finding one in a junk yard may not be that easy. Once you have the axle nut off the fun begins. The hub is held on by 3 #45(or 55) Torx bolts
buried in the hub carrier. Trick one, clean out the Torx recesses so you can get full engagement of the Torx bit. Rotate the axle so that the universal joint
clears each bolt before you try to remove it. Use a 3/8 drive Torx on a long extension adapted to a 1/2 breaker bar. Get the car high enough so you can add an extension to the breaker bar. Ask your local Pro football offensive lineman to try to break the Toex bolts free. The factory must set them at 200
ft. lb. You really have to work to get them off. When installing the hub don't
be surprised if it doesn't slide over the spline. I use anti sieze and pound the hub on with a piece of wood and a heavy rubber mallet. :party:

 

I did mine without removing the shafts, not easy but do-able. Sid.