I HAVE AN 85 CORVETTE THAT I WAS PUTTING 91 HEADS ON SO I DESIDED TO PUT A BIGGER CAM IN SO I DECIDED ON THE LINGENFELTER 79213 (.460 TO .480 LIFT I THINK) BECAUSE I HAVE A PRE ROLLER BLOCK ANYWAY I HAVE A LOT OF MODS ALL THE GOOD STUFF I AM SUPOSE TO HAVE THEN THE DAY I BRING IT HOME FROM MY MECHANICS THE LIFTERS WENT OUT OF IT AND TOOK OUT A LOBE I MEAN THIS LIFTER JUST BOWLED RIGHT OUT (THAT REALLY PISSED ME OF) SO I CALL LENGENFELTER AND THEY SEND ME A NEW ONE (COOL). NOW 3 WEEKS LATER THE MOTOR HAS BEEN RUNNING GREAT THEN 2 DAYS AGO IT STARTED AGAIN MAJOR LIFTER NOISE AGAIN AND I KNOW IT 'S HAPPINGING AGAIN
WHAT THE F^$%#&^%$# IS GONING WRONG I HAVEN'T CALLED LENGENFELER YET I WANT TO COOL DOWN FIRST AND I KNOW IT'S NOT MY MECHANIC HE BUILDS MY DRAGSTERS MOTORS AND HAS NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH THOSE

CAN ANYBODY TELL ME WHAT THE F%$^ IS GOING WRONG ???
PLEASE ANY INPUT WOULD BE NICE THANKS !!!
:mad :mad :mad

 

What kind of spring pressures are you running? If it's the same bore, you might have an alignment problem with the block

You might also want to consider converting to a roller cam.

 

I DON'T KNOW I WILL ASK MY MECHANIC BUT I DO KNOW THAT THE SPRINGS ARE GOOD UP TO A .520 LIFT CAM THE THING IS I HAD A SMALLER COMP CAM WITH ABOUT A .420 LIFT WITH THE SAME ROCKERS SAME SPRINGS AND THAT OONE WORKED FOR 4 YEARS BUT THAT WAS WITH MY STOCK 76CC HEADS KNOW WITH THE 91 58CC HEADS THE 213 IS THE ONLY CAM I HAVE USED
BOTH MY MECHANIC AND I BOTH THINK THAT THE LIFTERS THAT THEY GIVE YOU WITH THE CAM ARE JUNK HE SAID THAT HE HAS NEVER SEEN THEASE LIFTERS BEFORE I THINK THAT THEY ARE TO SOFT

 

WHY ARE YOU SCREAMING???????? :confused:
Dude, we can see the lower case text just fine, caps arent necessary!

 

read this carefully, you may not want to hear it but CAMS RARELY FAIL WITHOUT EITHER LUBRACATION OR CLEARANCE PROBLEMS BEING THE CAUSE!
read this info and KEEP IN MIND THE SECOND CAM MAY HAVE FAILED DUE TO FINE METALIC DUST LEFT IN YOUR ENGIME FROM THE FIRST CAMS FAILURE IF YOU FAILED TO CLEAN ALL THE OIL PASSAGES IN THE BLOCK CORRECTLY BEFORE INSTALLING THE NEW CAM,
http://www.cranecams.com/instruction...in/camfail.htm
http://www.cranecams.com/hydlfaq.htm

anytime ANY parts are changed you must check the engines clearances, your builder should know this!, heres a few things that should always be checked on an engine build

what are your valve train clearances? is the rocker arm geometry correct!
is the oil pump pick-up mounted 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor/
is the windage screen mounted about 1/8" from the rotateing assembly/
is the pick-up brazed to the pump body?
has the oil pump relief piston in the oil pump been checked for free ,easy movement?
is the oil pump pick-up tube inserted to far into the oil pump body,(binding the gears)
has the block been clearanced for the rotating assembly?
has the cam to rod bolt clearance been checked?
piston to valve clearances
rocker slot to rocker stud clearances
retainer to valve guide clearances
what were the piston ring to slot clearances?
were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in/
were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove?
what were the back clearance on the rings?
were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag?
were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap?
spring bind height/total cam lift and remaining clearance
valve lash/preload ?
main bearing clearances?
piston to bore clearances?
ring end gap clearances?
thrust bearing clearances
what is the main bearing run-out clearance
piston to head clearance?
rod bolt to block clearances?
what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached?
are the rod bolts and main caps torqued correctly? (rod bolts checked with a bolt stretch gauge?)
did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment?
what size journals ana what bearings?
are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper?
did you use moly lube to assemble?
did you pre-lube before start-up?
did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely?
did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance?
did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight?
if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons?
were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait?
were the rods checked for length?
is there a few thousands clearance on the oil pump drive shaft AFTER the distributors bolted down?
did you install a steel collar on the oil pump drive shaft?
was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked?
whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance?
is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok?
is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/
are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/
did the head gasket overlap the bore?
what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts?
were the bores honed with a torque plate in place?
was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used?
was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED?
were the valve to valve guide clearances checked?
was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/
cam to timing cover clearance?
cam journal to cam bearing clearances?
was the cam journal run-out checked?
were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber?
was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks?
was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED?



When the distributor is installed, the bands at the bottom of the housing are designed to complete the internal right side lifter galley on all small and big block Chevrolet V-8’s and 90° V-6 engines. If you hand file a small vertical groove .030" wide x .030"( thats the diam. that crane recommends Ive always used the larger groove with no problems)deep on the bottom band (above the gear), pressurized oil running between the two bands will be directed downward onto both the gear and the cam.<P>This procedure is recommended for all Chevrolet engines no matter what material gear (cast or bronze) or what type of camshaft (cast or steel) you are using.<P> <P> [B] keep in mind the groove MUST be lined up with the cam gear when the distrib. is installed

. you can always buy some more MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBE and a can og G.M. E.O.S. here read this,
while general motors (engine oil suppliment)(E.O.S) is not a good long term oil additive, it is a very good additive to have mixed with the engine oil durring the breakin/initial startup or when breaking in of a new cam and lifters. E.O.S. can help along with the moly lube to plug up the oil filter element under some conditions so its a very good idea to add a can to your oil just before starting an engine with a new cam installed, run it for the first 2 hours or so as the rings seat and the lifters lap in to help provide extra wear protection and then change your oil and filter to a good synthetic or at least a good mineral base oil to get it out of your engine after it has done its job!this procedure also removes any metalic dust from the cam breakin and further helps protect your engine. but remember to remove it because after breakin the engine cools and it can cause problems as it thickens, draining it and changeing your filter while the oil is still warm is the best advice! the very small amount that is left in the engine after the oil change will not cause any problems.BTW be sure to coat ALL the cam lobes and lifter contact areas with MOLY CAM LUBE if your building the engine, the factory already does it, on crate engines.
http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Foru...ML/008887.html

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...77&prmenbr=361

http://www.cranecams.com/master/lube.htm#Super%20Lube

1052367
Vehicle Care
ENGOILSUP
12
$6.85
$5.14
$4.11
$0.00


EOS - Engine Assembly Prelube
Specifically formulated as an engine assembly lubricant. E.O.S. provides outstanding protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing as well as run-in camshaft lobe and lifter scuffing resulting from insufficient lubrication
sure I use it all the time, that mr moly grease and the ms molly spray is great stuff <P> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly2.html <P> http://www.msmoly.com/ <P>

 

The only cam failures I have ever had were due to oil starvation. It takes very little to clog an oil galley feeding a specific lifter. :iagree:

 

Agreed on the oiling problem/debris issue. Make sure everything is clean all the way through the motor. Also, did your engine builder use assembly lube on the lobes of the cam? You don't want to on a roller motor (oil will do great), but you can wipe a lobe out on a cam VERY quickly on a tappet cam if you don't use assembly lube for initial break in. Since it's happened to you twice, I'd suspect assembly issues rather than parts issues. Also, if you happen to have reused the lifters from the first cam with the second, you could have a problem there. Any time I rebuild an engine, I replace all of the lifters, no matter how many miles were on the motor or what the cam looked like that came out. On rollers it's not as critical because the lifter doesn't wear into the cam like a tappet lifter does, but it's cheap insurance.

I also agree on the caps, and also, for the love of god, PLEASE use punctuation. It is VERY hard to read posts that have no punctuation in them.

 

He is not using any sort of oil restrictors is he? I know some guys use these and their upper ends can't drain enough to properly return the oil to the pan, and over the cam etc. If that is the case I would remove them all.

As Ralph indicated, if the lobe is the same as before, sounds like a block/alignment problem.

Also make sure then the new cam is put in that the lobes are evenly spaced and directly aligned with the lifter bores. Corky said he once was installing a cam and they were all off a little :eek:

Good luck man! You have more patient than I do. My car would have been towed to the nearest cliff if that happened twice. :mad

 

All the above, notwithstanding, was the proper break in proceedure used? With different heads, I'm sure you have a somewhat different valve spring installed height. Are the pressures within reason? Coil bind? Just thoughts. Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!
1984 Crossfire
Member NHRA

 

yes he used break-in lube (both times)
the thing is I had my other cam in for 3 years with no problem then I decide to get some 91 corvette aluminum heads, and a cam this happens. we both think that the lifters are to soft you should have seen the BOWL in the lifter it was huge and the lobe on the cam was completly gone it was as round as the shaft itself
yas he cleaned the motor completly out. I just don't understand I used the same valve springs (good to a .520 lift cam) same push rodes (hardened) same roller rockers (1.6 comp cam) everything that worked just fine for the other cam?
my mechanic drag races with my he biulds his own and mine and other racers motors with alot more power than my simple little street motor.

know I used the same hardened push rodes as I had with my 85 iron head 76cc chamber heads with my 91 vette aluminum 56cc chamber heads is their a differant size rod that is for an85 than an 91???
but also if their is something wrong with the push rod hight or the trque setting or anything alse wouldn't that cause all of the lifters to BOWL out and take out all the lobes not just one and all others look great ???

 

I completely took out a lobe on my cam. Same prob you had, and I clearly had an oiling problem. Rebuilt the bottom end and have been fine ever since.

Remember, flat-tappet lifters spin in their bores. If for any reason the lifter doesn't spin, it can cause problems.

You can probably get by with using pushrods for the stock 85 engine. The later, roller blocks likely used a different length pushrod.

The stock 85 heads have slots that act as the guideplates. Off the top of my head, if you are using non-aligning roller rockers, you need to be using guideplates on those heads. Might be something to look into. Good luck, -Matt

 

I use to work for a cam company and have seen cams go flat, and there is two other problems to look at
1. Is flat tappet cams must have a taper on the cam lobes for the lifter to rotate and expose more area surface the the cam, I should be 1/10 thousant of an inch per inch.
2. The cam it self may be soft and not have been proprly been heat treated, have the cam lobes checked on a rockwell machine to see if in fact it has been done.

 

There is more to the proper cam break in proceedure that just the lube.

RACE ON!!!
1984 Crossfire
Member NHRA