besides the normal checks for deck height, line hone,and splayed main caps, making sure all the threaded holes are correct, the cylinders honed lifter bores are correct, theres the little things, I paint the inside surfaces of my blocks with
http://www.glyptal.com/1209_black_enamel.htm
to lock in place any micro dust left after the last total cleaning before assembly, to speed the oil flow back to the oil pan and help prevent corrosion
BTW I bought 16 rubber corks to push into the lifter bores to prevent paint entering the lifter bores durring the painting, I placed 16 mini-screw eyes in the corks and strung them on a bead chain to keep from loseing them while in storage or in use!

http://www.camtattoo.com/camshop/hom...ing_Tubes.html





Ive used BOTH RUSTOLEUM (BRITE YELLOW) and Glyptal but lately just several coats of BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM ON OVER THE glyptal EPOXY BASE COAT,COVERED BYE BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM APPLIED ON THE TOTALLY CLEANED AND DEGREASED AND DRIED BLOCK, (BTW A TOTAL DEGREASE OF THE BLOCK WITH ACETONE,and LINT FREE CLOTH, AND A heat gun or hair drier to totally dry the block just before cleaning helps the paint get a firm grip on the block surface) and dont forget you should remember the option to J&B EPOXY a MAGNET in the lifter gallery BEFORE painting the surfaces if you want to permenantly afix it on the block. (which do a great job at picking up micro metalic dust)
http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet1.html


I buy and use the 1 quart size cans of brite yellow paint at the local hardware store keep in mind that YOU MUST ALLOW THE PAINT TO TOTALLY DRY BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE, AND THAT NORMALLY TAKES A FULL DAY IN THE HOT FLA HEAT (85 degrees (F)is a fairly average temp here
#7747 Sunburst Yellow
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp...ct_id=18&SBL=1
I use brite yellow on both the interior and exterior of the engine blocks I build because it makes finding oil leaks very easy once the engines in use in the corvettes where space is cramped and finding small leaks can sometimes be a problemActually the idea is to grind away all casting flash (the rough sandy looking surface) from the inside of the block, and then wash thoroughly, dry thoroughly, then apply the paint. This takes a long time and must be done carefully which is why most engine builders don't do it, but engine builders on racing teams do it.

It's not only to assist in oil drainback but also keeps the oil from clinging to the block and coking. In racing engines the benefits are slight but apparently noteworthy, check out any GTP type race car engine and you'll see this done as standard block prep.here read. it will help,

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/blockdiy/blkdiy.htm

http://www.hardblok.com/info.html


http://www.speedomotive.com/building%20tips.htm

http://www.se-r.net/engine/block_prep.html

now in addition to that info , heres what I do
(1) get the block totally cleaned, DEGREASED and CHECKED by a GOOD MACHINE SHOP BEFORE INVESTING MONEY IN IT!
(2) have new cam bearings and freeze plugs , oil plugs,installed only after all other machine work is done and after a extensive recleaning of all the oil passages just prior to starting assembly
(3) screens over the oil drain back holes are a good idea ONLY if your willing to change oil and filters very frequently
(4) several powerfull magnets in the oil pan and one in the rear of each cylinderhead to trap small metal parts is EXCELLENT INSURANCE
(5) polishing and smoothing the valve edges and combustion chambers helps prevent detonation
(6) if your pouring the block,never fill the water passages higher than the bottom of the freeze plug holes on a street engine
(7) 7 or more qt oil pans with BAFFLES AND A WINDAGE SCREEN like MILODON MAKES are a GREAT IDEA