I have just pre-ordered my new Opti from Dyno Engineering. http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm
I am wondering what all I should do while I am doing this job. I plan on replacing the water pump, but which one should I use? Stock or other?

Water Pump Replacement? Which one? I am not going to use the Meizure.

Camber Brace?

Coil Replacement? Which one?

What else?

The car is a 94 Automatic Coupe. All the standard mods have been done. Plugs and wires have been changed over to Iridium with Magnecore wires. Radiator and Plenum have been removed and cleaned.

Suggestions are appreciated. I would like to make the most of this "maintenance period".

:cheers:


[Modified by Da Wiz, 11:11 PM 6/28/2003]

 

What is your reason why you choose not to go with a MeziereHD water pump?

 

Hi Strick,

I haven't been able to find enough info on installations that have been in the field for a long period of time. I also haven't been able to find a consistent circuit that folks use for the power.

One of the other things I am concerned about is welding up the shaft hole the OE pump uses.

And finally, cost.

Are you an advocate of the electric pumps? If so, fill me in.

:cheers:

 

I see you are from JAX. I know it's hot down there. Here's my reasoning on the Meziere HD pump upgrade:
1. At idle, you'll have more coolant flow through your engine.
2. I've had oil leaking from the driven shaft seal and wanted to eliminate it.
3. When my OEM water pump failed, it leaked coolant all over my opti and trashed it. The electric water pump eliminates that possibility.
4. When it comes time to replace the Meziere pump, it is a very easy R&R.
5. It frees up a few ponies
6. I like the ability of running the pump after engine shut down for continued cooling. This is a plus at the track or after some stop and go traffic with the A/C on.
7. The Meziere pump looks like a nice quality piece of machinery.
8. The OEM pump fails quicker than the electric. They say it will last at least 2500 hours. That's good enough for me.

As far as plugging the hole in the timing cover, I brought it to a precision welder and he cut a plug and welded it in place. He ground it and polished it so you can't tell there was a hole. Cost $30.

I'm still doing the install and should have it done by next week, unless the WAR DEPARTMENT has something else for me to do.

Oh, wiring, I wanted to do my own design on the circuitry as I want the capabilty of turning it on with the engine off, or if the relay fails to connect. I'm into back ups.

So, I guess you can say I'm an advocate of the Meziere coolant pump upgrade.

Strick

 

Water Pump Replacement? Which one? I am not going to use the Meizure.
If you aren't going to run a Meziere, your only option is a stock replacement water pump. But, do replace the W/P while the car is down.

Camber Brace? Definately if finances allow get the camber-brace

Coil Replacement? If you are not having coil problems, a new one is not needed.

 

There is absolutely NO reason to change a good water pump that's not leaking...unless you're running an OEM GM Optispark without sealing mods. The Dynaspark has a captive o-ring seal and it does not have a lower cap with seam and it does not have shrinking foam sealer around the control wiring harness to leak water. The Dynaspark is "solid billet aluminum" in these notorious leak-prone areas. IMO, you're wasting your money.

 

Thanks all for the input.

When I changed my wires over (drivers side was a major pain in the butt) I noticed some water, so I am concerned the pump is leaking. I will verify it when the new DynaSpark arrives, which is currently scheduled for mid to late July.

If I can find a reasonable price, I will reconsider the electric pump. Strick makes a good case based on lifespan and flexibility of use with the engine off.

No needto replace the coil? The car currently has 84k on it. I seem to have gotten my money out of the Opti.

Thanks again fellas,

:cheers:

 

I understand the theory of not changing the waterpump, unless leaking... but those things are such a pain, I would replace it...

 

Another thought,

Since I am in here, is there any reason to change the timing chain? The car seems to run fine, just random musings at this point.....

:cheers:

 

If you are not removing the timing cover, as is required for the Meziere pump install and that's another debate, I wouldn't consider it. However, some guys like going to the HD chain, but there are minor mods involved, too. I didn't go that route, maybe later when I pull the engine for some real mods. If you have any signs of an oil leak around the crank hub, to replace that seal requires pulling that hub and that requires some special tools, but it can be done. I did it.

 

There's no need to pull the timing chain cover, just modify an old H2O pump and bolt it on. Be sure to leave off the little extender that drives the pump.

Doesn't the Meziere come with a freeze plug to seal the weep hole anymore? Mine did.

Eric

 

Eric, I think most people who install the Meziere do remove the timing cover and seal the top hole to remove one of the major spots for an oil leak. The pump does come with a brass plug to seal the rear of the pump housing, but if you want to seal the timing cover, you will need to aquire another plug or fabricate something to fill that whole. One guy JB welded a coin there. :steering:

 

That is a great point regarding the potential oil leak in the timing cover. I think I will strap that one on. :cheers:

 

Huh? What hole is there that the stock timing cover has that the H2O pump covers? If you're refering to the cam driven spline for the pump, it doesn't have to be sealed and it's no more likely to leak as when it's driving a pump.

If you're going to all the trouble of changing the cover, then use a $100 Cloyes (sp?) timing chain. There's lots of daily driver cars with the stock LT1/4 timing cover and an electric H2O pump, no extra oil leaks (the intake and front seal leak much more than the timing chain cover).

Eric

 

Eric, the hole that the waterpump drive goes through is the one you would want to seal. Here is a stock 92-93 cover with all three holes open (waterpump drive at the top, then the opti, then the crank). Now here is one with the waterpump drive plugged (also nicely powdercoated) Mine is like this, only done in silverish color. If you left the waterpump drive sticking through the cover it would wear out the seal fairly quickly. I have the Cloyes double roller timing chain on mine 396 and the only problem I've had so far is the crank gear is about .030 wider than a stock gear. I think this might cause a slight problem with the belt alignment. :steering:

 

If you don't pull the driven gear that is attached to the block inside the timing cover, you will eventually develope a leak. Besides, who wants to see an extra gear spinning around not driving anything.