I actualy warped my front disk on my vette and they even craked. :banghead:
I knew I was hard on breaks... but holy frig! I didn't think I'd ever warp disks on a vette.

Anyway's, I ordered two new ones with break pads.... regular disks, regular pads... I know its a good named brand.

Anyone here knows what kind I should of ordered "even if its to late", like cross drilled or cross vented.


Thanks!

 

Well slotted might help; if cross-drilled be sure the holes are stress-relieved to avoid cracking with hard use.

I don't do much extreme braking so I just replaced my rotors with std units from a local brake shop.

Don't foreget to replace the two caliper bolts & washers along with the caliper pin, c-clips and pad retainer springs.

A little black RTV on the back of each pad will prevent rattles and bedding the new pads will prevent glazing.

 

I basicaly ordered the snd ones also.
You mensioned.. Quote

===============================
Don't foreget to replace the two caliper bolts & washers along with the caliper pin, c-clips and pad retainer springs.

A little black RTV on the back of each pad will prevent rattles and bedding the new pads will prevent glazing.
===============================

Do I have to get new bolts and washers, and pin, and c-clips and pad retain springs to change the pads on my car? or can I use the same ones that are already on the calipers?

Since I ordered new pads does this stuff come with it ?
About that RTV stuff.. normaly its blue in collor right?

What do you means by bedding ? do you meen spredding the RTV all over the back of the pad? kinda like peanut butter? hahaha sorry this is the best example I could think of

And whats Glazzing?

Sorry about all the questions


Steph

 

Does any body know if the clips and springs are re-usable on the Front calipers when doing a break change? or do you have to get new ones!

Any ones reply would be greatly apricated!

Thanks

 

I hope I'm not sounding to stupid... but I have changed brakes pads before... but I re-used the same clips and springs

I think I just miss understood

:confused:

 

The manual tells you to replace the bolts. I didn't. It made no difference. They've been checked twice since the change and there is no problem. They don't come with the kit, as I recall. They also aren't readily available except from the dealer here in Texas.

 

Considering the cost and effort it must have been to remove the
bolts and magnaflux or xray them twice (which are really just two
of only a few ways to determine with some certainty that the bolts
are not about to fail) it would have been cheaper to go to the dealer,
spend 5-10 bucks and have the peace of mind new bolts would bring.
(A visual inspection, even if the bolts were removed, would not be
sufficient to establish the condition.)

Each wheel/hub/rotor assembly weighs say 70+ lbs - so at road speeds
this turns into some significant kinetic energy. Then there is the 3400+
lbs of car to keep in mind, too.

When you apply the binders, all that keeps the calipers from
accelerating up to the same speed as the rotors are turning are
those bolts that didn't get replaced.

In part, this is likely due to the potential liabiliity issues.

 

I think the bolts are called the "torque to yield" design (I think that is the term, but it may be "yield to torque"). I guess that it means that they are only good for one torquing, as they twist and stretch, and therefore should be replaced at every removal of them. I agree that it's cheap insurance to simply replace them- the brakes ARE the most important thing on the car. You'll realize that after the first time they don't work! (hasn't happened to me on the vette).

jared :flag

 

I forgot to address your other questions in my above post:

RTV- the color depends on the application you are after. Black is what I typically use, and I feel is the most handy around the garage for most tasks, such as gaskets. I've also used orange or red, but can't remember what it's for specifically. I like to use copper anti sieze compound between the pad backs and the shims to prevent squeaking. The stuff is really messy and will absorb most squeaking, but easily prys apart and doesn't bond like glue. It does the same job as RTV without the issues the next time you change your pads.

Chances are that the necessary hardware won't be included with your pads. They wring the last dollar out of your for parts always!! You can probably reuse everything but the bolts, but like I said earlier, why mess with brakes? You bet your life on them.

By bedding, he probably meant proper break in of the pads. Right after you install new brakes, there is a specific procedure of getting up to different speeds and doing specific stops to properly break in a new set of brakes. That way you will get maximum life out of them. You might be able to find the procedure in the tech tips archive, or by doing a search for it. I don't know the procedure off hand.

Glazing occurs when brakes are not properly broken in, or when you get them really hot (you already know about that! :D). The heat makes the pad all blotchy-ish shiny, and also lowers the friction on the rotors, which is bad. The best way to know what glazing is is to see it. The next time you find a friendly guy at one of the brake places, ask to see a glazed set of pads they took off of a car. Or, go to a tranny shop and ask to see a glazed clutch. Same thing.

Hope that helps. There are better people here to answer your questions more knowledgably, but it looked like you needed help, and I was one of the first fellas to pull over! :cheers:

Jared :flag

 

Good information. Here are some sites with why & how-to info on
bedding in new pads, some sites are better than others:

http://www.c5-corvette.com/Articles/...brake_pads.htm

http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5

(hmmm, is it just me or do those last two seem very similar...)

http://www.safelinebrakes.com/archiv...burnishing.htm

http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=27

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

(The site above mentions the smell you should notice and
emphasizes the importance of the cool-down cycle. Also
mentions what to look for afterwards.)


Replace these parts, particularly if the brakes have been
subjected to high heat. These items are manufactured
from 'spring-steel' and excessive heat is likely to have
annealed them (caused them to lose the qualities that
make them spring-like.)




[Modified by Slalom4me, 9:00 AM 7/5/2003]

 

I've got four PowerStop drileld rotors with stock pads on mine and they are absolutely great !! Also reasonable at the brakepartswarehouse. Paid $200 for teh front set and the same for the rear set (w/o pads!!).....i think they are a little more now ....also like that they are cadmium plated..looks cool and no rusting ever...http://www.brakeco.com/