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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member, Inland Empire Chapter
rear axle u-joints?
I just found out I have 3 bad rear axle u-joints and the owners of the extended warranty company I was counting on to repair this went to Mexico with the company assets. Well. Ive done pretty major auto projects before. I did a '72 Elco restore a few years back. Ive done engine and trannie replacements. Replaced and upgraded entire rear ends and drive shafts. But Ive never done anything major on a vette. Is replacing the rear axle u-joints something the average shade tree mechanic like me can do or should I spend the ca$h and have it done? Ive already got the u-joints thanks to a goodly Forum member. (Thanks Caboboy!) Thanks for any input on this.
replacement is not difficult for the average shade tree, HAYNES repair manual section 8-10, explains the th R&R..you may want to do a wheel alignment when done.. or to retain correct rear end alignment scribe the cam bolt and the mountting bracket:
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member, Inland Empire Chapter
Re: rear axle u-joints? (scorp508)
Thanks for all the input guys. I guess Ill go ahead and give it a shot.
That page of yours is *exactly* what I was hoping to find Scorp, thanks!!! Is there an index page for your site for other how to tech gems like this one?
To save yourself an alignment....don't mess with the camber botls. Just pull the brace off the 3rd member instead. (4 bolts)......that way you lower the arm to the ground and the camber bolts never move. :D
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member, Inland Empire Chapter
Re: rear axle u-joints? (ittlfly)
To save yourself an alignment....don't mess with the camber botls. Just pull the brace off the 3rd member instead. (4 bolts)......that way you lower the arm to the ground and the camber bolts never move. :D
I couldnt do that. The upper bolts were blocked by the transverse spring and I didnt want to pull it completely out.
But I did get the axles out pretty easily I think. Im sure going back in will be a bit dicier though. Ill take the axles to a friends tomorrow that has a 12 ton press. One cool tip I ran across online I wanted to share...I was at Pep Boys to get a pickle fork to take the tie rods loose and saw there was 2 diff types. So I thought Id run home and do a quick bit of research to see which exact one I needed. I ran across a tip saying that instead of using a pickle fork just take the cotter pin and loosen the nut then use a hammer and tap the knuckle a couple inches away from the tie rod (you thought I was gonna say tap the nut huh?). Just a light tap and the tie rod dropped right out and it was damned tight to begin with. The guy said this was to avoid tearing the rubber boots. I tried it again later on the other side and got the exact same results so I guess it wasnt a fluke. The original tip was for a front steering tie rod on a porsche, but what the hell if it works? lol http://www.nichols.nu/tip701.htm
Thanks for all the info guys, especially that how-to page Scorp.
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