As mentioned in an earlier thread, my clutch on my Lt4 started slipping after only about 4000 miles.

Yesterday and today I replaced it with a "new" (well, takeoff from an LT4 crate motor) clutch and flywheel. In comparison, the old flywheel is definitely toasted. Lots of dark marks and such. The disk was a little glazed and the pressure plate showed some blueing around the edge (looking thru the edge) and similar dark marks to the flywheel.

Hopefully this one will stand up. I'm planning on doing at least 500 street miles before autocrossing it (not that I think that's hard on it, but better safe than sorry).

Today while working on it forum member Tom "tdock" Durdock stopped by and introduced himself. Pleasant supprise to say the least. Too bad he could stay and join the fun that is resinstalling a ZF :smash:

I might take some pics when I go back out sometime to clean up the tools from the garage...

Oh, in total it took me about 12 hours across two days.


[Modified by TravisD, 7:23 PM 7/5/2003]

 

Glad it is turning out OK...
This has reminded me of a question I have...does the LT4 have a single mass flywheel? this would save some $$$ during replacement/resurfacing of the flywheel, right?
Thanks
Jeff

 

TravisD,

That was an excellent reference being able to see your LT4 midway thru the clutch/flywheel install. I should have left a disposable camera with you to snap a couple photos at key points. Also, if you can, list of all the misc. parts or suggested replacement parts you needed along the way, like bolts, gaskets any non-standard tools, stuff like that would be great. I might be tackling this project in the very near future.

 

no_radio: The LT4, like the LT1 is a dual-mass flywheel. I was very tempted to go with a lightweight flywheel, but decided not to based on a couple of things.

As far as tools go, There isn't too much out of the ordinary. I was doing the job in my driveway on jack stands. I would say the list is probably like this:

- Good jackstands with a decent height. Being able to turn sideways on the creeper was a big help this time. I'm not a small guy and wedging myself under there the first time around was not fun. I got ones that I used in the front with like a 20" saddle height (6-ton capacity).

- Metric tools. Mostly sockets (dep and standard), though a couple of open or box-end wrenches for use on top of the C-channel. 8,10,11,13,15MM to start, and some bigger ones for the channel - 18 or 19 and 21MM I believe. Torque wrench too... I found that a slightly longer 3/8" ratchet was better than the smaller 3/8 that I used before. I tended to use a 1/2" with 1/2>3/8 adaptor for some just to get the extra leverage while on my back under the car last time... Also 6mm and (I think) 10 or 12mm Allen wrenches for the pivot ont he clutch fork.

- Couple of long-ish (12") socket extensions and a swivel joint.

- Two or three floor jacks. One big enought to get the car up high, and another one (or two) to do things like support the engine. During reassembly it's helpful to be able to tweek the angles of things and the jacks work will. A low-profile $70 harbor freight scissors-type tranny jack would have been a help here - workable from under the car unlike the big floor jack. Not a requirement though. If I ever do this again though I will acquire one.

- Blocks of wood. Varions - on the jacks (non-load-bearing only folks!) and to do the "raising the pyramids" technique to get the #@%@ tranny back onto the jack while it's under the car (with the height the car was at, the tranny with shifter is too tall to drag out from under the car while still on the jack...)

- Misc. chemicals - brake/parts cleaner and Blue Locktite mostly.

- Tranny fluid. You'll loose some from the tailshaft when you angle it to pull it and replace. I probably had to add about 4 oz. back (it had recently been changed so I didn't just drain it first). If you haven't changed it recently then now's a good time to do it and it may save you some mess.

- I changed the flywheel bolts for good measure. Less than $25 for 6 of them. Might as well do the pressureplate bolts while you're at it.

- Probably some exhaust hardware depending on what shape yours are in. Mine had been off recently but I still ended up replacing one that had been previously replaced by the dealer (stud replaced with a bolt. Probably tapped crooked...) This is where you'll probably be reaching for the breaker bar if they haven't been off recently...

- Clutch alignment tool if the clutch kit doesn't come with one. Mine did the first time so I had it already.

- A flywheel holder tool would've been nice - I couldn't find one in time so I improvised with an old bolt, block of wood, and floorjack.

- Balance weights for the new flywheel. My old one only had 3; the crate-motor takeoff flywheel I bought had 10-12. At $0.70/ea pick up a dozen "Just in case". I had to drill them out - they're in a blind hole and I couldn't figre out any other way.

That's it from memory. Note that now's the time when you'll find out if the ream main seal is leaking - and now's the time to do it if so. If not you get to do it all again when it ruins the new clutch. Oh yeah, biggest "need" is a helper - to work the floor jack while pulling/replacing the tranny, and to work the clutch while trying for the 2nd time to alighn everything and stab the tranny back in. Also useful for getting tools too :D