Engine break in procedure recap....
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Engine break in procedure recap....
Well, after 3 months, 4 days, 20 hours, and 53 minutes of waiting I was promissed my engine would be done today and I could pick it up tonight after work. So that means an entire weekend of install lined up ahead of me. If I do manage to get it in without forgetting parts or breaking anything what do I do to break the engine in. I've checked the archives and this is what I've found. Please let me know if any of this if wrong.
1.) Use normal motor oil, not synthetic, for greater friction.
2.) On first startup make sure the engine gets to operating temps.
3.) Retorque the heads after first start up????
4.) Don't baby the engine, give it hard acceleration and deccelleration(sp?)
5.) Keep the engine under 4000 rpm???
6.) Change the oil at 100, 250, 500, and 1000 miles then go to synthetic.
Please let me know what you guys think. Are any of these not necessary or is there something else I'm missing. Thanks in advance. :cheers:
1.) Use normal motor oil, not synthetic, for greater friction.
2.) On first startup make sure the engine gets to operating temps.
3.) Retorque the heads after first start up????
4.) Don't baby the engine, give it hard acceleration and deccelleration(sp?)
5.) Keep the engine under 4000 rpm???
6.) Change the oil at 100, 250, 500, and 1000 miles then go to synthetic.
Please let me know what you guys think. Are any of these not necessary or is there something else I'm missing. Thanks in advance. :cheers:
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,672
Likes: 20
From: Lake Wylie SC
Re: Engine break in procedure recap.... (mn_vette)
Just thought you'd like to read this: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It makes sence to me
[Modified by Strick, 12:56 PM 7/11/2003]
[Modified by Strick, 12:58 PM 7/11/2003]
It makes sence to me
[Modified by Strick, 12:56 PM 7/11/2003]
[Modified by Strick, 12:58 PM 7/11/2003]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,097
Likes: 0
From: High Plains Drifter Fayetteville, AR
Re: Engine break in procedure recap.... (Strick)
Just thought you'd like to read this: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It makes sence to me
[Modified by Strick, 12:56 PM 7/11/2003]
[Modified by Strick, 12:58 PM 7/11/2003]
It makes sence to me
[Modified by Strick, 12:56 PM 7/11/2003]
[Modified by Strick, 12:58 PM 7/11/2003]
:cheers:
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Fraser MI
Re: Engine break in procedure recap.... (Strick)
Just thought you'd like to read this: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It makes sence to me
[Modified by Strick, 12:56 PM 7/11/2003]
[Modified by Strick, 12:58 PM 7/11/2003]
It makes sence to me
[Modified by Strick, 12:56 PM 7/11/2003]
[Modified by Strick, 12:58 PM 7/11/2003]
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Tx
Re: Engine break in procedure recap.... (86Moon)
Some thoughts:
1) It is not necessary to have maximum cylinder pressure to generate enough friction to seat the riings. Moderate acceleration from 2000 to 3000 RPM is sufficient. Microscopically, you want the high spots to burnish, but not get hot enough to weld to the opposite part.
2) Lots of engine parts need this burnishing: cam lobes, valve guides, bearings. With roller bearings, the need is less than with sliding bearings (main, rod, cam)
3) The "run 'em hard from the first" school come from the racing teams. Fair enough. Racing engines are rebuilt every 500 miles. A high performance street engine should last 50,000 miles with only valve spring refreshment.
4) I am unaware of any engineering studies demonstrating improved compression from max acceleration break in techniques.
5) I totally agree that no engine should ever be stressed until all fluids are up to temperature, fuel mix is known to be appropriate (ie, not lean), and no air pockets exist in the coolant.
6) Retorquing of the cylinder head, intake manifold, and header bolts after an initial run in of 30 minutes (with cool down) is advisable with aluminum heads. Antiseize on the threads is mandatory. Header bolts often need retorquing several times over the first month.
Hope you enjoy your new HP.
1) It is not necessary to have maximum cylinder pressure to generate enough friction to seat the riings. Moderate acceleration from 2000 to 3000 RPM is sufficient. Microscopically, you want the high spots to burnish, but not get hot enough to weld to the opposite part.
2) Lots of engine parts need this burnishing: cam lobes, valve guides, bearings. With roller bearings, the need is less than with sliding bearings (main, rod, cam)
3) The "run 'em hard from the first" school come from the racing teams. Fair enough. Racing engines are rebuilt every 500 miles. A high performance street engine should last 50,000 miles with only valve spring refreshment.
4) I am unaware of any engineering studies demonstrating improved compression from max acceleration break in techniques.
5) I totally agree that no engine should ever be stressed until all fluids are up to temperature, fuel mix is known to be appropriate (ie, not lean), and no air pockets exist in the coolant.
6) Retorquing of the cylinder head, intake manifold, and header bolts after an initial run in of 30 minutes (with cool down) is advisable with aluminum heads. Antiseize on the threads is mandatory. Header bolts often need retorquing several times over the first month.
Hope you enjoy your new HP.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,153
Likes: 1,731
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Re: Engine break in procedure recap.... (mn_vette)
Id use dino for the first 2 oil changes, but I think you might be overdoing it by going at 100, 250, 500, etc. Id do one at 500, then 1000, but its not like youre going to hurt it by doing too many oil changes.
Id keep it under 3K rpm, and definitely retorque anything thats aluminum.
Id keep it under 3K rpm, and definitely retorque anything thats aluminum.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Farmington Hills MI
Re: Engine break in procedure recap.... (Strick)
Just thought you'd like to read this: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It makes sence to me
It makes sence to me
Only - - does this go for engines not built by the factory?
What about my 383 that's waiting to be wired and fired up?
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