Please Help Me Build An X-Brace - Picture Request
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Please Help Me Build An X-Brace - Picture Request
Can someone out there Email me a picture of the mount points for the rear of the Convertible X-brace? I understand there are aluminum blocks at the rear. I am looking for some pics of these blocks and how they fasten the X-brace to the frame.
Why? I want to build an X-brace for my Coupe. I don't like the flimsy nature of the GM brace but want to use the same mount points. Help me design this by sending some pics and I'll post the mechanical drawings of my finished brace in case you someone else wants to build one.
Thanks!
zrt6@hotmail.com
Why? I want to build an X-brace for my Coupe. I don't like the flimsy nature of the GM brace but want to use the same mount points. Help me design this by sending some pics and I'll post the mechanical drawings of my finished brace in case you someone else wants to build one.
Thanks!
zrt6@hotmail.com
#2
Melting Slicks
Re: Please Help Me Build An X-Brace - Picture Request (Atok)
Here you go. Also if you search for topics created by me you will find several threads on how to do it. Don't use the blocks in the rear, make some plates to fit the opening in the frame and weld nuts on the back of these plates.
:seeya
:seeya
#3
Melting Slicks
Re: Please Help Me Build An X-Brace - Picture Request (Atok)
Atok -
Just so you know, the middle pics that vetracer posted is not how the OEM braces mount. Not that there's anything wrong with vetracers conversion, it's just not how GM did it. :D
Sorry, I don't have a digi-camera. (Maybe we could get Scorp to take a couple pics). But the four aluminum blocks are just spacers; they space the brace away from the seam, which you can see in vetracers pic. The bolts are 12mm. There are at least two different thicknesses of spacers; the ones on my '86 are ~ 2 inches thick.
I have a crude sketch of a much thicker X-brace which I'm taking to my local fabrication shop. I want at least 6-ga sheet metal (~.190"), mild steel; if they can't bend it, I'll go with steel channel and to Hell with the weight!!! :thumbs:
Just so you know, the middle pics that vetracer posted is not how the OEM braces mount. Not that there's anything wrong with vetracers conversion, it's just not how GM did it. :D
Sorry, I don't have a digi-camera. (Maybe we could get Scorp to take a couple pics). But the four aluminum blocks are just spacers; they space the brace away from the seam, which you can see in vetracers pic. The bolts are 12mm. There are at least two different thicknesses of spacers; the ones on my '86 are ~ 2 inches thick.
I have a crude sketch of a much thicker X-brace which I'm taking to my local fabrication shop. I want at least 6-ga sheet metal (~.190"), mild steel; if they can't bend it, I'll go with steel channel and to Hell with the weight!!! :thumbs:
#5
Melting Slicks
Re: Please Help Me Build An X-Brace - Picture Request (Atok)
Yes, the front connections had to be fabricated. The problem I ran into besides not having the factory provisions in the frame for the brace in the front is that the fuel filter is in the way on the pass side and the hard brake lines for the rear are in the way on the driver side. Even with the way I did mine it is a real PITA to change the fuel filter; there's no room to turn wrenches because the brace gets in the way.
Aout the thickness of the brace - the brace itself doesn't "stiffen" the chassis. The brace keeps the floor pan from stretching and/or sagging as the car goes over bumps,driveways, etc. You could use two cables to accomplish the same thing as the brace if you had enough ground clearance. So even though the factory brace is flimsy, it will not stretch so it is thick enough to be 100% effective at what it does. This is why it is important to make sure the brace is tight when it is installed and there is no slack in it, otherwise it does nothing but add weight and reduce ground clearance. As you can see in my first photo above I have placed the jackstands on the frame seams INSIDE the brace mounting points so that the front and rear of the car are cantilevered over the jacks. By tightening the brace in this position, there will be some preload tension on the brace once the car is lowered back on to its wheels, making the brace more effective.
Aout the thickness of the brace - the brace itself doesn't "stiffen" the chassis. The brace keeps the floor pan from stretching and/or sagging as the car goes over bumps,driveways, etc. You could use two cables to accomplish the same thing as the brace if you had enough ground clearance. So even though the factory brace is flimsy, it will not stretch so it is thick enough to be 100% effective at what it does. This is why it is important to make sure the brace is tight when it is installed and there is no slack in it, otherwise it does nothing but add weight and reduce ground clearance. As you can see in my first photo above I have placed the jackstands on the frame seams INSIDE the brace mounting points so that the front and rear of the car are cantilevered over the jacks. By tightening the brace in this position, there will be some preload tension on the brace once the car is lowered back on to its wheels, making the brace more effective.
#6
Drifting
Re: Please Help Me Build An X-Brace - Picture Request (vetracer)
Damn, I wish my garage was that un-cluttered...
I'm working on installing a stock brace on my coupe also. My car had the front mounting points already & I got the dealer to cut me a deal on the alum. spacers. I was going to weld a plate down in the rear area of mine but just to give me enough thickness of metal to allow me to cut threads into some holes & then mill off the alum. spacers by that amount. If my brake(left)/fuel(right) lines didn't run through that area I'd try the nuts welded on the back side of plates idea. :smash:
I'm working on installing a stock brace on my coupe also. My car had the front mounting points already & I got the dealer to cut me a deal on the alum. spacers. I was going to weld a plate down in the rear area of mine but just to give me enough thickness of metal to allow me to cut threads into some holes & then mill off the alum. spacers by that amount. If my brake(left)/fuel(right) lines didn't run through that area I'd try the nuts welded on the back side of plates idea. :smash:
#7
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2003
Location: Saratoga Springs NY
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2022 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Re: Please Help Me Build An X-Brace - Picture Request (Atok)
Ok im new....Where is this X brace on the car??Middle?Rear?? Also what other frame things should be done to this car to handle 550hp??? I havent even been under my project yet..Cant wait!
#8
Melting Slicks
Re: Please Help Me Build An X-Brace - Picture Request (vetracer)
Aout the thickness of the brace -...
#9
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '04 & '05
Re: Please Help Me Build An X-Brace - Picture Request (Atok)
Mid America has them in thier new catalog......can you make them cheaper with all the parts required???????
Don't think sooooooooo......
But only you know.....By the way thanks for those great picture's....keep them comming......
thankyou
tony
:smash: :smash: :smash:
[Modified by oldace84, 7:58 PM 7/17/2003]
Don't think sooooooooo......
But only you know.....By the way thanks for those great picture's....keep them comming......
thankyou
tony
:smash: :smash: :smash:
[Modified by oldace84, 7:58 PM 7/17/2003]