94 front brake pads
My car has 96k miles.
The previous owner replace pads at 59k, just before I bought the car.
(i don't know if they were stock, though they looked factory)
I noted the following before taking everything apart:
(a) - the pads clicked sometimes when applied at low speeds
(b) - pads rattled over bumps
(c) - rotors appeared to wear evenly, no grooves, only the slightest
pulsation or hint of warping, only under the lightest braking
(d) - lots of brake dust through the vanes on my wheels.
I observed the following as dissassembly:
(1) - brake pad pins were slightly worn where they contacted the pads
(2) - antirattle clips looked tired
(3) - the metal part of the pad where the pin goes through was
extremely worn, so much so that replacing the pin and the clips
still allowed the pads to rattle slightly.
(4) - the pads were worn unevenly, ie the pad thickness from front to back
was not the same, and opposite for inner to outer pad, as if the caliper
was not perpendicular to the rotor.
(5) - caliper bracket appeared properly located wrt the rotor.
(6) - antisqueal shims installed on pads
I put everything back together temporarily with a new pin and clip, and the bump rattle went away 85% of the time, and they don't click any more, and although they are safe for now, I need new pads ASAP.
now for the questions:
Can anyone comment about the following:
- Stock pads from GM ($121)
- Hawk HPS pads ($89)
- EBC Greenstuff ($79)
I do spirited driving only, summer and winter in VA.
I may do and autocross once or twice. I'm concerned
about brake dust, wear, stopping power, and brake feel
What about Rotor prep:
- Should I have them lightly cut (I think so)
- Must I have them cut if I change composition
- what surface finish is best for bedding new pads? who does this?
What about uneven pad wear? what causes that?
Thanks for any input.
Ken
(4) - the pads were worn unevenly, ie the pad thickness from front to back
was not the same, and opposite for inner to outer pad, as if the caliper
was not perpendicular to the rotor.
I put everything back together temporarily with a new pin and clip, and the bump rattle went away 85% of the time, and they don't click any more, and although they are safe for now, I need new pads ASAP.
now for the questions:
Can anyone comment about the following:
- Stock pads from GM ($121)
- Hawk HPS pads ($89)
- EBC Greenstuff ($79)
I do spirited driving only, summer and winter in VA.
I may do and autocross once or twice. I'm concerned
about brake dust, wear, stopping power, and brake feel
What about Rotor prep:
- Should I have them lightly cut (I think so)
- Must I have them cut if I change composition
- what surface finish is best for bedding new pads? who does this?
At to the turning of the rotors, this is almost a religous war. Some swear by 100grit sand paper to deglaze, some swear by turning. Some swear at each other.
For about $55 each ( I think that's about the going price now), I'd put new ones on. Turn the old ones. Save them for spares.


My opibnion-stock car=stock brakes. I'm actually going to give the Green Stuff a shot because I want something different. I have the NAPA Ceramix pads now and they are starting to wear the rotors down a bit.
I switched several months ago from the NAPA Ceramix to EBC Greenstuffs because of price and what I had heard on the forum. The stopping performance seems to be about the same, neither one squealed, dusting on the Greenstuffs is worse than the Ceramix but not too bad.
I definitely don't want to have to heat the brakes up, my commute to work is but 6 minutes as it is! (perhaps I'll just have to drive away from work first, then go to work. More seat time! :lol: )
Anyone else have the problem with the backing plate wearing at the pin?
John Row, how long did you drive it scraping thinking it would be okay? Did it really destroy the rotor that fast?
If I were to get new rotors, are those $55 ones any good? Where are they from. I know a lot of people say the cheaper rotors are junk. I saw nice looking powerslot rotors for $99 each. Are they worth anything besides show?
I might lean towards the sandpaper method. The ones I have really are pretty good.
Keep the replies coming!
Ken
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
John Row, how long did you drive it scraping thinking it would be okay? Did it really destroy the rotor that fast?










