I got my motor out about a week ago, didn't find anything catastophic. I can't figure out what was causing the noises I was hearing. I hope it wasn't the tranny after all this. The bearings and crank were marred up some and it looks like the oil rings probly just got tired. In addition to #8 which had been fouling badly, when i pulled the plugs #'s 4 and 6 were also pretty fouled. Everything else looked pretty good. There was some copper dust in the bottom of the oil pan.
The bearings were all silver, no copper :confused:

I've been doing some rudimentary research on parts. I've learned that it's gonna cost more than I thought, no matter what. I'm trying to figure out what to do to get the best I can for the least cost. I've got ported polished stock cast heads, comp cams 1.6 rocker rollers, 219 LPE roller cam, Eagle forged rods, and a SR with bigmouth TPIS runners and mathched intake comming (still waithing to finalize transaction). I've also got a line on some used 10:1 CR flat top forged pistons, ? with forged rods for a very good price. These are for a .30 over bore.

This car will be a daily driver and I plan to quarter mile some, do some road track time occasionally and maybe a little autocross now and then. I'll probably keep it normally aspirated. It'll be driven aggressively frequently. I plan to deck the block and balance the rotating assembly. I'm not planning any major transmition or rear end changes at this time.

Questions at this point.

1. I know no one would probably recommend used parts, but is there a way to
test for the integraty of the pistons, rods, and block that would reasonably
confirm their worthiness?

2. I've found a four bolt main block casting #3970010. I've been told these
are good blocks to build. From waht I can determine this is a 69 to 80 GM
bulid. Should I use it instead of my stock casting 1408858 2 bolt main?
Unfortunately the 4 bolt has a cast crank as well, so no luck there.

3. Should I really be that concerned with using a forged crank (or other parts)
and what about mixing forged and cast parts?

4. What is required to be done to the block to install the roller cam?


I'd appreciate any input, keeping in mind that I hope not to spend more than about $2,500 to 3,000 total. Let's say that with what I've already mentioned I'm already in over $1,500 and I still need all the standard stuff for a rebuild and the required machine work that I'll probably have to pay retail for. The R&R and all labor I can reasonably do are on me. I also have some aquaintances who do some performance engine work, but I don't know how much help I'll receive from those sources yet.

 

You mean a superram with a bigmouth base? the "TPIS runners" would suggest a completely different item that fits an original tuned port setup- NOT your SR. Prolly just a type-O, but I wanted to clarify. :D

Your 2-bolt block is fine for a mild N/A engine. If you're really pushing it, then have the 2-bolt splayed (stronger than an original 4-bolt block). Also, I would hesitate on buying used parts if you're looking for longevity- but that's just me.

Also, I'm going to guess that you're not going to make enough power to justify a forged crank (or a splayed block), so no Nitrous or 500HP smallblocks, correct?

As for the roller cam- it might have been easier to stick with the stock hydraulic lifter cams, but in your case you will need a conversion kit that CompCams, Crane and others sell. Just get a good one (I have no experience with them).

:cheers:

 

Yup you caught my terminology "typo", thanks for pointing it out, not much sense in changing it now. No, no 500hp, but I'd like to leave the option open to throw a squirt at it down the road if I wanted to for some reason. I'm hoping to put together something between 300 and 350hp or so I guess. I'm hoping to get into the 12's with the work I'm doing here. I've been told it's not unreasonable to think I could get in those ranges.

 

I think I'd have to be able to trust who is selling me the block, rods, pistons. Too much to hide here if you don't know the history of the parts. I would have the block pressure tested and magnafluxed/dye checked to see it there are any cracks in the main bearing webs and head surfaces. You also don't want a block where some smuck messed up the rework.

Dye check the pistons (particularly around the ring land area) for hairline cracks. I'd be more inclined to buy a 4 bolt main short/long block assembly from one of the performance places. But that's just me.

You are going to have to get the rotating assembly balanced since the pistons/rods probably don't weigh the same as the originals.

If you are doing the engine build yourself there are a LOT of things to check before assembling the used parts. Plastigauge, micrometers, thickness gauges, and bore measuring dial indicators are your friend here. Otherwise be sure you can trust your engine builder.

 

Thanks alot for the suggestions. It sucks having my car down here and being in limbo, but this is no time to get in a hurryand F something up. I'm going to keep my eyes open and either search out or wait for the right thing to come along. What do you think a fair price would be for a running 87 motor complete, minus the computer, which I assume I wouldn't need. It has 54,000 mi and has been allegidly maticulously maintained? Anyone?