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1. Over the last few months, my 85 has been taking a little longer to start, and once it starts, I'm smelling something like a combination of raw gas and starting fluid. My wife made the comment the other day that it was putting out a little black smoke for a second or two when I started it. Sounds like it's running rich, but I have not noticed any difference in performance when driving it, and my fuel mileage has not changed in the least. 20.5 City/26 Hwy
2. I can go out and start this car 10 times in a row, and 10 times in a row, it will start at different RPM's. I varies from 680 RPM's (where it has always idled) all the way up to 1500 RPM's with a VERY slow drop back to 680.
NOTE: This is happening when the engine is warm. Also, when I am driving the car, and pull up to a stop light, the engine will stay at around 850/900 RPM, and then slowly drop back to idle, and with the AC on, it will drop down to 450 or less when stopped, and sometimes die altogether. It will restart immediately, right back up to the high RPM's, and then SLOWLY drop back.
This car is getting harder to figure out every day. Thanks in advance for any ideas, and or tips.
no ideas on #1, but for #2, i'd check to see if the IAC valve is stuck or partially stuck. it can accumulate a lot of crap on it which can cause what you are describing. i'm sure if you do a search you can find quite a few posts on how to clean the valve properly. if you do it wrong you can damage the valve.
Not sure checking the coil will help. If it is open it won't work. If it is shorted it won't work. Coil should not affect leaking, that is a fuction of the seal of the valve at the tip of the injector. If it is dirty or not shutting completely you get a small leak until the fuel pressure goes down. Same with the cold start valve.
Might crank the engine when cold with the ignition disconnected so it won't fire and then check plugs to see if one of them is wet with fuel. This should identify if one of the injectors is leaking. Won't check for the cold start valve though.
Ohm'ing the injectors will show indirectly whether your injectors are working properly, even with sealing. Afterall, if the coil is caked with buildup and won't open properly, it probably won't seal properly either.
My point was that if the injectors don't ohm out high enough they need to be replaced anyway so it's a good place to start. Especially on an older car.
I have been having the same problem on my 85. Yesterday I fired it up and it sounded like it backfired on kickoff. I have no mufflers so it was loud. first time its ever done that. Thoughts? :confused:
1. With IAC connected, ground diagnostic lead.
2. Turn on ignition, do not start engine. Wait 30 sec.
3. With ignition on, disconnect IAC electrical connector.
4. Remove ground from diagnostic lead and start engine. Allow engine to go to closed loop.
5. Adjust the idle stop screw to desired minimum RPM
6. Turn ignition off and reconnect IAC connector.
7. Adjust TPS to .54 volts.
8. Start engine and check for proper idle.