Greetings,

I just became the owner of a '96 6 speed coupe, and it has the FE1 suspension. Seems like it hops around too much, and I'm thinking of replacing at least the shocks. Anyone else start with this suspension and upgrade it? If so, can you share your experiences?

Thanks,
don

 

You can easily switch to bigger front sway bar and Z51 spring, along with new Bilstein shocks and poly bushings.

Id hesitate to do rear sway and spring if you like the current ride quality.

 

:iagree:

 

Go with a 30mm front sway bar. :thumbs:

 

Thanks, guys, I am seriously considering the Bilstein Z51 shocks to start with. Anyone use anything else? If so, were you impressed by any other shocks.

Thanks,

 

Before I upgraded my shocks I swapped my stock swaybars for the Z07 30mm/26mm solids bars w/poly bushings and endlinks. Big improvement in handling with no real increase in harshness. Then I went to Hal/Q1A 12 way adjustable shocks. Add in a camber brace and things start getting real good.

Eric

 

I have the FE1 and it was hopping on bumps like you describe at 80000 miles. I upgraded to the Z51 Bilsteins, and I added the Camber Brace. If I were you I would start with the Z51 shocks and try it out. You'll probably think that's all you need to do, but the Camber Brace is a good add.

I wouldn't mess with the springs or sway bars at all unless you are going to autocross, and then only after trying the shocks. Take a trip with just the Z51 shocks and you'll probably find it is stiff enough, compared to the FE1 it will be way different.


As a bonus no one else will be able to spot the difference, only you will know.

[Modified by 94lt1torchred, 10:06 AM 7/24/2003]


[Modified by 94lt1torchred, 10:07 AM 7/24/2003]

 

Congrats on the new ride :cool:

Everyone has an opinion.... Here's mine, based upon a few years & a lot of work on a 96 roadster & similar setup on a '89 coupe. BTW, remember that FE1 on a coupe is softer than a roadster - the roadsters have "FE1" but use the same springs front & rear as the Z51 in a coupe.

First, do the alignment. Factory alignment settings try to keep bad drivers from getting in trouble. For "spirited" street & fun in the mountains, try:

Front - Camber set to NEGATIVE 0.7 (I run -1.7)
Toe set to zero (I run zero street & from 1/8 to 5/16" OUT on track)
Caster - as much as possible while keeping at least -.7 camber

Rear - Camber set to NEGATIVE 1.0 (I use -2.0)
Toe set to 3/16" IN (make sure each side is equal @ 3/32) (I use 1/4")

Now for sway bars. Since you have FE1 (soft ride) suspension, you have a tubular 26mm front & a solid 24mm rear. Change the front to a 30mm solid. Do not use the 32mm some people sell. However, when you do this, change your front wheels to 9.5 inch wide rims and move to 275/40x17s front & rear. Keep the 24mm solid rear bar. Note that 30/24mm solids w/9.5 wheels at all 4 corners worked fine for the Challenge cars! Since you will change front bars, make sure you use poly bushings - you've got to buy new ones anyway.

I use Koni adjustables (Yellow) instead of Bilstein shocks. I had the Bilsteins rebuilt & revalved twice first. They work great, but I wanted to be able to tune to autocross, road course, & street. If you do the Bilsteins, you have to pick one and live with it. The Konis give great lattitude.

I've tried heavier springs, but went back to the '96 Z51s front & rear. When you change the front spring, get a lowering kit. Follow the directions (like those posted at MAD and elsewhere) on cutting the top of the factory rubber spring perch area and also cutting the spring clamps to fit. Remove all spring shims by the clamps in the cross member at this time. Now, use the lowering (longer) bolts with grade-8 locknuts (the compression type, not nylock) to lower the rear so it's about 1/4-1/2" higher than the front. You will need to re-align it now.

Last area is to check your bushings: control arms, camber rods, trailing arms, etc. Changing all to poly will improve the handling noticeably. Remember the ones for the differential carrier assembly (bat wing) too. When the control arms are off, I'd replace the ball joints & tie rod ends too. Re-align after this is done.

So, I've just spent $2K of your money, not counting labor. I hope you do your own work :) But your car will handle great! Don't go to more agressive race alignment settings & heim jointed components (like me) unless you're really serious about track being #1, #2, and #3 :D and street being #4 priority. Good luck :flag

 

Thanks, for the detailed information, guys. That's what I was looking for. I'm going to start with the Z51 Bilsteins and move forward in increments from there.

I appreciate your input.

Shiny side up.

Thanks again.

 

Hey,
Where is the best place to get poly bushings and end links?????for the 30mm/26mm sway bars.
I to would like to upgrade and I think you can get the sway bars from Chris at superior, but I did'nt know about the poly.
Gonzo

 

Sway bar: http://www.superchevyperformance.com/misc/c4sway.asp
bushings: http://www.madvet.com/shop?store=3&c...190&frame=1116

:chevy

 

Poly bushings can be had from Summit about the cheapest around. Jegs as well. I just did the rear sway bar end links and paid $14 for poly from Summit. Took two weeks cause they don't normally stock it. Plan ahead.

Realize that if you lower the front you have to replace the spring to go back to stock.

 

http://vettenet.org/susp_chart.html