Clutch pedal problem!
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Trinity FL
Clutch pedal problem!
Hey All,
Virgin here at the Corvette Forum so go easy on me.
The clutch pedal on my 90' vette has to be pressed all the way to the floor for me to get it to go into gear and if the engine is running the car will move when doing so. Once I'm driving the car it shifts ok.
From what I have read, scanning the past forums, that there is no manual adjustment to the hydralic clutch system and that it's all self adjusting. What happens when your all out of adjustment? I noticed that the master cylinder was low so I add fluid and that seem to work for a little while. I've read in some post about bleeding the system in case air might have gotten in the line. How is this done? Will this bring some life back into the pedal?
Any solutions to this problem will be greatfully welcomed or if anyone has had this happened to them, I would like to hear from them.
Thanks,
thejazze
Virgin here at the Corvette Forum so go easy on me.
The clutch pedal on my 90' vette has to be pressed all the way to the floor for me to get it to go into gear and if the engine is running the car will move when doing so. Once I'm driving the car it shifts ok.
From what I have read, scanning the past forums, that there is no manual adjustment to the hydralic clutch system and that it's all self adjusting. What happens when your all out of adjustment? I noticed that the master cylinder was low so I add fluid and that seem to work for a little while. I've read in some post about bleeding the system in case air might have gotten in the line. How is this done? Will this bring some life back into the pedal?
Any solutions to this problem will be greatfully welcomed or if anyone has had this happened to them, I would like to hear from them.
Thanks,
thejazze
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Re: Clutch pedal problem! (thejazze)
I've never bled mine, but I have added fluid and pumped the pedal a few times and shifted the gears until it felt smoother.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Re: Clutch pedal problem! (thejazze)
That's what happens when you're low on fluid or have air in the lines. If it gets too low you won't be able to disengage the clutch.
They call it "self adjusting" but in reality, it's "non adjusting" As the clutch wears, engagement point rises, if you machine the flywheel down, the clutch engagement point drops. Pull off the rubber boot around the slave cylinder and see if the clutch fluid is leaking past the piston.
Ideally, there should be an adjusttable clutch slave pushrod, but it doesn't come with one from the factory.
They call it "self adjusting" but in reality, it's "non adjusting" As the clutch wears, engagement point rises, if you machine the flywheel down, the clutch engagement point drops. Pull off the rubber boot around the slave cylinder and see if the clutch fluid is leaking past the piston.
Ideally, there should be an adjusttable clutch slave pushrod, but it doesn't come with one from the factory.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 606
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach VA
Re: Clutch pedal problem! (thejazze)
Clutch Master and Slave, been there.
I had a clutch problem like that when I bought my 91. The fluid level was dropping a bit and the release point was getting closer to the floor. In my case it was a failing slave cylinder. When I pulled the cylinder out the rubber dust boot was full of fluid that had leaked past the seal on the piston. A new cylinder shouldn’t cost you more that about $80-$85 bucks and swapping it out is easy. I bled my system buy first pumping the master with the line off in a bucket, and the hooking the slave to the line and letting gravity fill the slave while holding the bleeder up and high. That was last year just before Carlisle and it’s still working great. I have an old post about it.
I had a clutch problem like that when I bought my 91. The fluid level was dropping a bit and the release point was getting closer to the floor. In my case it was a failing slave cylinder. When I pulled the cylinder out the rubber dust boot was full of fluid that had leaked past the seal on the piston. A new cylinder shouldn’t cost you more that about $80-$85 bucks and swapping it out is easy. I bled my system buy first pumping the master with the line off in a bucket, and the hooking the slave to the line and letting gravity fill the slave while holding the bleeder up and high. That was last year just before Carlisle and it’s still working great. I have an old post about it.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Trinity FL
Re: Clutch pedal problem! (Roadrace65)
Thanks to all that replied!
Checked the whole system over and did't find any leakage. Noticed that the level was still alittle low in the master. topped it off, pumped the pedal a few times and all is right in the world again. the only problem I have now is learn how to shift again with the engagement point being so far up the pedal release.
Thanks again!
Checked the whole system over and did't find any leakage. Noticed that the level was still alittle low in the master. topped it off, pumped the pedal a few times and all is right in the world again. the only problem I have now is learn how to shift again with the engagement point being so far up the pedal release.
Thanks again!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 17,881
Likes: 25
From: The third orange grove on the left
Re: Clutch pedal problem! (thejazze)
If you find your master cylinder is getting low on a somewhat regular basis then you have a leak somewhere in your hydraulic system. The system doesn't really hold a lot of fluid so spotting a leak can be difficult. Continuing to drive your car in this condition can put excessive wear on your transmission synchronizers. Once you have a synchro failure you will need a very expensive transmission rebuild. You should replace the clutch master cylinder and slave actuator as a set. Check out http://www.zfdoc.com for more info.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 21,510
Likes: 0
From: On a Wisconsin Death Trip
Re: Clutch pedal problem! (1995LT1)
Both units are aluminum and use rubber bushings so they wear out. How many miles on the car? Check the hose, too, it could be cracked. Check at the crimp points, that's where mine was leaking. :seeya
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 34,062
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From: Evans, GA
Re: Clutch pedal problem! (thejazze)
Had a similar problem with the 88 coupe, 4+3 that I owned. It is the slave cylinder that need a rebuild or replacement. In my case, after the second failure following a rebuild, I replaced with new master and slave at 80k miles and had no futher problems. Gave the car away at 128k miles and it was still working O.K..
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