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Engine stand work is much much better than over the fender sweat in the eyes, trouble light burning your arm, wrench slipping, knuckle busting, back breaking, hard seeing, trailer talk generating work that in the car work affords.
YOU KNOW what else.....a friend of mine is having a problem with his new 400 block and gllowing headers, a key sign that there is too much retard in the timing, and fuel is burning in the headers. Maybe his base timing is really off from what he thinks due to this also. I was just fortune enough I guess to move the timing that far forward and achieve the best timing mark, since its way further than I would normally recommmend someone to advance the timing, with everything normal.
[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 2:11 PM 7/28/2003]
I had the same problem (melted wiring and vacuum hoses as a result.) Turns out I'd set the base timing to a valve-phasing mark, not the true timing mark. (Making it 4 ATDC instead of 8 BTDC --curious how that's a 12 degree difference too...that number 12 must mean somethin' :) )
With the bigbutt radiator, it'd reject the heat, so all I saw from the drivers seat was high oil temps, a rough idle, and the melting stuff.
Set the timing right and the idle got sweet and the overheating went away. Now in 105 degree blacktop-stop-n-go traffic, the primary fan doesn't even turn on.
The only way to know for sure is the hard way, unfortunately. I know for a fact that Chevy put timing marks in different places and I beilieve it to be for different chassis installations. You see, they also put the timing tab in a different spot- so its more visible in different engine bays with different accessories. From what I found the tab is usually near the edge of the timing cover or at the center- where it must be viewed down the back of the water pump. The variations of "edge" tabs are usually for different diameter balancers. And we thought Chevy small blocks were "universal"!!
This thread caused me to go back to my car and check some things out. I have a new GM Goodwrench crate engine. Got a new harmonic balancer and it matched up with the old one as far as the key and mark. But with the new engine I was never getting any ping under any conditions, so I started advancing the timing 2 degrees at a time until I got a little ping at max load. Odd enough it ended up being about 12 degrees more than the timing mark showed to be correct, or about 18 degrees for an 85 L98. Since I got a new balancer and it matched the old one, I am suspecting the crank. I backed it off to 16* per the timing marks and will try it there. My scanner shows the knock detector picking up some pings under heavy acceleration, but not a lot and none when cruising, so I think I am OK where it is now.
Would not have thought to try that if I hadn't read this thread. Thanks. :thumbs:
After you have determined that the marks are correct I would check the distributor rotor phasing with the #1 terminal on the cap. If the rotor is out of phase ( before or after the terminal when the spark occurs ) the actual timing will not correspond to the timing marks. I have a modified cap that I use to check it. ( I cut a hole in the cap with a die grinder behind the # 1 terminal ). Mark the top of the rotor contact with white marker, flash your timing light through the hole and you will see the position of the rotor as the spark occurs. ( It should be directly in front of the terminal ). There is some adjustment in the pick up coil by loosening the mounting screws and rotating the ring. It's a PIA But I have used it numerois times :crazy: