Recently lowered my GS using the poly wedges and the longer rear bolts. Satisfied w/ the rear; however, the front still seems too high. When installing the wedges there are two aluminum shims that rest on the wedge, I only put one in thinking it would help, unfortunately when parked next to my brother's GS the fronts look equal in height. HEAR IS THE QUESTION---has anyone left out the wedges out entirely, yes stiffer ride, but can it be done with little to no complications. Suggestions please...

Thanks,
Chris
GS348


[Modified by GS348, 7:35 PM 8/9/2003]


[Modified by GS348, 12:29 AM 8/10/2003]

 

Hello?

 

Yes, I have lowered it by leaving out the wedges, but I left the rubber spacer in there, but cut it down a lot.

I recommend a VBP Extreme front spring, which is what I run now, its fully adjustable, I can drop or raise the car in less than an hour.

 

I had the same problem, and had to do the job twice. I ended up removing the shims, wedges and end cushions. I bonded a 1/8"piece of poly to all 4 pressure points. I'm sure most (or all) would not advise you to do this, but it worked out perfect for me. The height is exactly right and I haven't had any problems. To tell you the truth, I didn't notice a "stiffer" ride. The biggest difference was getting in and out.

Good Luck!!!


[Modified by Triple Black 88, 12:07 AM 8/10/2003]

 

I had the same experience when I lowered my 85. My 85 does not have the aluminium shims like your car, but with just cutting off the stock rubber mounting blocks and replacing with the poly wedges I only got approx. 1/4" drop in the front. To get the front end down I had to cut off the rubber cushions on the ends of the springs, this drops the front end down for a total of approx. a full 1". This has not affected the ride quality (or course my car is an 85).

My suggestion to you is to remove the rubber end cushions and use the aluminium shims to "fine tune" the amount of drop. A friend that had a 96 Z51 coupe did the same thing and did not complian about ride quality.


[Modified by VanSpeed, 9:26 PM 8/9/2003]

 

VanSpeed,

Do you have any pics that you can post of your lowered C4, I would love to see how your setup looks prior to dropping mine some more---I'm sure it looks great!

Thanks,
Chris
GS348

 

GS348,

I have been away for a few days, so I am catching up. I do have some pics in digital format from the track, but I do not have anywhere to post them. I will look into the forums web page deal and see if I can get some pics up on that then I'll post.

Brian

 

Where can I get more info on this??? Thanks

 

I left all rubber out on a 95 and have no problems. I have less than 2" clearance in the wheel wells, car is low and perfect.

 

vettebrakes.com

 

I just had my 93 convertible lowered and had the same problem...the front is too high. I went on a high speed run this past weekend with some C5's on the way down to Monterey for the Historic Races. When I got above 85 or so, I didn't feel very comfortable with the feel of the car. The front end was lifting a bit.

I took it back to the shop today and we talked about raising the rear. To me the rear is perfect, but it is easier to adjust. How hard is it to take the pads out of the front?

 

You aren't meant to re-install the aluminium wedges when using the poly lowering wedge kit.

The basic procedure is as follows:
Remove aluminium shims (if your car has them)
Cut rubber/metal wedges off the top side of the spring.
Install poly wedge.
Install leaf spring.

If that still isn't low enough you can leave the poly wedge out. If you do this it is probably best to install some sort of insulator (maybe a thin piece of rubber) to protect the spring from wear.

You can also cut off the rubber wedges on the outside lower edge of the spring (where the spring contacts the a-arm). Again, it is probably advisable to insert some sort of thin insulator to minimise wear.

When cutting the insulators off the top of the spring, measure their height (insulators only) as well as the height of any aluminium shims installed by the factory to work out how much you need to trim off the top of the aluminium spring retainers (the bits that hold the spring in place from underneath) to ensure the spring is securely mounted. If you have to trim a fair bit off the spring retainer you will most likely need to install washers when doing up the spring retaining bolts as you may not have enough thread to tighten them down adequately.

HTH

 

The wedges account for two of the four total pivot points for the spring. Leaving them out will f' up your spring rates and it's load transferring ability.

Corvette suspension IS NOT fully independent!

 

This is exactly what I just finished doing. I lost about 3/4 of an inch. From the ground to the edge of the fender through the center of the wheel measures 26 1/4 inches. Sits perfect for me.

 

By using the poly wedges (or a similar shim) you are not removing the pivot point for the suspension. You are only reducing the distance between the spring and the crossmember, moving the spring higher up into the crossmember of the car.

You are not removing the pivot points by following the method I (and many, many others before me) have suggested in my earlier post. :)

 

The only thing on Arisa are the yellow polys I put on the springs. No Spacers or whatnot......

Neal

 

I tore the front end apart again Monday night. Here's what I did.... Took out all the metal shims (two per side), put everything back together and finally I have the stance that I wanted. It looks really cool.

 

That's precisely what I said. The poly wedges are two of the pivot points, and must be installed. Your procedure looks fine to me. I wasn't directing my comments at anyone in particular, I just happpened to hit 'reply' on your post. :steering:

I probably sound like a broken record, but I cringe whenever I hear people on this forum talk about just setting the spring in the channel with no wedges of any sort. :nonod: IMHO, installing it that way is no better than a pimply faced ricerr taking a hacksaw to his coil springs on his Civic.

 

Sorry mate, I assumed you were directing the comment at me. :)

I do get your point about installing the spring without any wedge and what I mentioned about deleting the poly wedge though. FWIW, IF I lowered via that method (and I haven't done so myself - although I have a friend who has) I would still use some sort of insulator where the pivot points are used(although there wouldn't be much difference between it and an poly wedge in thickness...).

No hard feelings. Sorry for any misunderstanding.

:) :thumbs:

GS 348, Good to hear you got the car where you want it.


[Modified by Red 90 L98 Coupe, 5:50 PM 8/22/2003]