I've had my 88 to a Vette shop and they said the VATS was already by-passed, but the thing is still leaving me stranded. When I go back this time should I tell them to install a new ignition?, re-wire the system?. What do you have to do to get this year vette to start? I know it's still that security system because the starter makes no noise and the pump won't kick on. This is thee worst thing about this car. The other info about waiting 4-10 min. is also off, last time it took 24 hrs.

 

If you are in a hurry and the VATS has interrupted your start, just remove the negative battery terminal for a minute and reconnect. The vats will reset. Now if you have some other vats probles, thats another problem looking for a solution.

If you VATS has been properly bypassed, the pellet in the key has no effect, the car should start.

 

1Patriot, the neg cable is a very good tip, I'll try it. What other type failure would cause this no start. I'm gonna get this fixed or move to another car, I don't want to go through another summer like this. This thing has sat overnight in so many parking lots, it's going to get tagged as an abandoned vehicle, or vandalized beyond repair. I wish I had known about this defect before I decided on a C-4.

Thanks again.

 

Better find a vette shop that understands how C4's start. The VATS sytem detects the proper resistor in the pellet and closes the start enable relay and allows the ECM to pulse the injectors. The starter cranks when the starter solenoid gets 12v applied. The starter solenoid gets 12v from the battery through a fusible link, through the firewall connector, through the start contacts in the ignition sw, through the start enable relay contacts, through the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if an automatic), back through the firewall connector and then to the starter solenoid terminal on the starter. If VATS has been bypassed then you should unplug the clutch sw (gear selector sw if auto) and jump the socket and try a crank. If no crank, then measure the voltage on the jumper and there should be 12 v when you hit the crank position on the ignition sw. If no 12v, then there is no power coming from the start enable relay and you should check the relay to see if it is closed when you go to "crank" on the ign sw. Also check for 12v from the ign sw to the start enable relay contacts. If the dash and the electrical accessories work with the ign sw on, then the fusible link is ok. To test the starter motor, jump 12v to the purple wire on the clutch sw (or gear selector sw if auto).
It is possible that the VATS bypass isn't working, if so, the start enable relay is not closing and the injectors are not pulsing while cranking.

I understand the frustration when your vette won't start as I have been there, but I spent my energies finding the problem and fixing it. I had worn pellet contacts in the ign sw and had a new ign sw installed and haven't had anymore problems. I recommend you do the same.


[Modified by jfb, 8:16 PM 8/13/2003]


[Modified by jfb, 8:20 PM 8/13/2003]

 

jfb,

I'll give this info to the next shop I have the car worked on (I think you're right and the 1st guys did'nt completely understand the system). Can you put a standard ignition in these cars without the pellet type key?


Thanks.

 

The ECM would have to be replaced for a standard ignition system and it does so much that it isn't practical. You can bypass VATS but you will be at risk to have your vette stolen by having its column bashed and ignition sw jumped. 99% of thefts are done this way. Fix your VATS ( if that is what's wrong) and enjoy your vette.

 

Took your advise and got the new ignition barrel and keys, hope I get some reliable starting. Looks like if this does'nt cure the problem I'm looking at an ECM or starter relay? or shift relay? It's gonna take me a while before I have the confidence to drive the C-4 somewhere and actually shut it off.

Thanks.

 

When I was having VATS problems, I found that the ecm had a code in it for VATS. Mine an 86, don't know if the 88's are like this, but if they are, it could save you from "barking up the wrong tree". It could be something as easy as a bad starter solenoid. I'd check for codes, and then go from there.

Mine turned out to be just a worn out key... got a new key, never failed since, and that was last year.

 

Lot's a good info here, looks like I am not alone in this problem. I ruled out the starter and selenoid because it was also shutting down the pump. I tried the new key thing as well, to no avail. The ignition switch was sticky anyway, which was also kind of a problem. I'm hoping this problem doesn't linger on, or the car will end up in the consignment shop instead of my garage. My buddies got a cherry 70 Z-28 looking for a new owner.

Thanks