Problems getting it started?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 7,412
Likes: 259
From: Little Elm TX
Problems getting it started?
At first I thought it was the VATS. Took the key out and waited 10 minutes and it started up. I had noticed the key was dirty. Today though, I wanted to confirm this as it didn't want to start again. So this time I never took the key out. Turn it 3 to 4 times. Nothing. I had plenty of power and the battery was showing 12.0v. It had been sitting and it was 100° out. So I let it roll forward a bit and then let it out in gear. Try starting it again and it started right up. This sounds like a starter doesn't? Or am I missing something that I should check first?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Re: Problems getting it started? (R94 LT 1)
Remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs and the battery posts and replace the cables (neg last).
Can you hear the start enable relay click behind the center of the dash when you hit crank position? If VATS detected the correct pellet, it should click. If not, it might be VATS. First try your spare key as its pellet contacts aren't as worn as your everyday key. Next, jump the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic) and try a crank. Measure the voltage on the clutch switch jumper. It should read 12v when you hit crank position if the start enable relay is closed. If no 12v, its either the pellet contacts in the ignition switch or a worn ignition switch or a defective start enable relay. Proof that the pellet contacts are ok is to find the 2 wires from the ignition sw (on my 87 they come out the steering column and go under the carpet) and unplug their connector and measure the resistance with the key in place on the wires from the column. It should read the same as the pellet. If higher than 12k ohms, you need to replace the ignition sw. You can temporarily bypass VATS until you can replace the switch by clipping a fixed resistor the same value as the pellet onto the wires going to the passenger side. 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition so don't permanently bypass your VATS.
[Modified by jfb, 9:18 PM 8/16/2003]
Can you hear the start enable relay click behind the center of the dash when you hit crank position? If VATS detected the correct pellet, it should click. If not, it might be VATS. First try your spare key as its pellet contacts aren't as worn as your everyday key. Next, jump the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic) and try a crank. Measure the voltage on the clutch switch jumper. It should read 12v when you hit crank position if the start enable relay is closed. If no 12v, its either the pellet contacts in the ignition switch or a worn ignition switch or a defective start enable relay. Proof that the pellet contacts are ok is to find the 2 wires from the ignition sw (on my 87 they come out the steering column and go under the carpet) and unplug their connector and measure the resistance with the key in place on the wires from the column. It should read the same as the pellet. If higher than 12k ohms, you need to replace the ignition sw. You can temporarily bypass VATS until you can replace the switch by clipping a fixed resistor the same value as the pellet onto the wires going to the passenger side. 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition so don't permanently bypass your VATS.
[Modified by jfb, 9:18 PM 8/16/2003]
