When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When I have the 383 engine installed, should I have the torque converter changed to high stall? How much 2200? How exactly does the torque converter work, in layman's terms? Will my effective RPM range increase with new 383 crate motor?
I like my 2000 stall converter. Some of the time I wish I had gone with a little more like a 2400 but then again it took some getting used to with just a 2000. Changing the stall definately changes street manners in a noticeable way. Another thing you might consider other than just stall speed is the diameter size of the converter. A strong well built (yet still lighter and smaller) should rev up easier and reduce drivetrain loss a little bit. The only thing is a very high quality and lighter or smaller converter can be big $$.
So, should I ask for a 2400 converter after 383 upgrade? I know this sounds dumb, but what is a cooler? Attached to tranny? Why is it needed? Will the tranny just run too hot w/that much HP under the hood? Sorry, I learn more everyday about vettes, but it seems like a never ending process and I think alcohol over the years, may have limited my brain cell volume a bit. hehe
If you have the originally installed torque converter (1986) then it should stall up in the range that you want with a 383. That is if it still works ok. I have the 85/86 converter in my 89 and it stalls at 2700 with my mods. Many folks here are running aftermarket such as vigalante 9" converters. This might be worth a couple of tenths in the 1/4 over the 85/86 one. I just couldn't come off my wallet for $700.00 vs the $180.00 I spent at the Chevy dealer for mine. I shaved about .5 seconds in the 1/4 just from this mod!
John
If your tranny is original, it already has a 2024rpm stall. You can change that if you want, its totally up to you. If you want to be faster off the line then do it.
You will need a transmission cooler better than the stock setup, It will usually be mounted in front of the radiator so that fluid temps are lower. Hot fluid KILLS the 700r4. Higher stall TC=hotter fluid, more torque=more stress and hotter fluid. Sometimes a cooler can double the transmission's lifetime. Behind a 383 you will need it to be beefed up, both hard and soft parts.
Tranny is completely rebuilt- 3k miles ago and new converter, but I am sure it is a stock one. sounds like I need to consider the cooler when I do the engine swap. The more I think about this, the more I think I am going to go w/a professional shop that specializes in "custom" Corvette rebuilds/mods. Maybe a crate isn't the way to go for me. I have an appt next week to discuss a "custom" build, to include what parts,type, etc. and come up w/a plan. I may just spend a few extra $$ and do it that way. I am agonizing over this, because I just don't know enough or trust someone enough to make sure it gets down right, the 1st time.
definetly need to beef up tranny with your proposed 383... just been rebuilt? it would have recieved the manditory normal upgrade modications.. as for stall 2400 is good daily driver...2700-2800 for perfect launch..your choice.. i went with 2600 ( rebuilt and modified gm TC) and beefed 400r with cermic hard parts..shift kit...tranny cooler...should take up to 500hp and about the same tork.. :auto:
just be advised that with a higher stall you will think something is wrong...I did with a 2400...seems like it is always slipping.....but is normal.
I have a 2600 one and I've never noticed it "slipping"..hmm..
You don't feel the slipping? Must be nice. If I drive in a normal fashion, it seems that the rpms don't match the speed. Once I go WOT it really kicks in. I asked numerous times on the forum and all have said that it was normal....now you have me wondering :nonod: