nitrous kit wiring help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
nitrous kit wiring help
Here are the directions that came with my NX wet kit. These are easy enough, however I have a window switch and timing retard and need to know how to tie them into this.
My ignition (Mallory 685) has one wire for the timing retard. It is selected when the wire has 12V applied.
It also has one wire for the window switch. It is connected to ground when the switch is active.
Details are appreciated because I'm not very good with electrical stuff, especially when relays are involved. Also where would the timing retard wire go to on an LT1? The same place my tach connects?
Thanks for any help
My ignition (Mallory 685) has one wire for the timing retard. It is selected when the wire has 12V applied.
It also has one wire for the window switch. It is connected to ground when the switch is active.
Details are appreciated because I'm not very good with electrical stuff, especially when relays are involved. Also where would the timing retard wire go to on an LT1? The same place my tach connects?
Thanks for any help
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 9,713
Likes: 3
From: Sachse Texas
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: nitrous kit wiring help (4DRSS)
First off, disregard how NX has the hobbs switch (fuel pressure safety switch) wired in there. The better way to put that inline is to put it on the ground wire side of the nitrous solenoid. That way the fuel solenoid is open allowing the fuel pressure to get back up while the nitrous solenoid is waiting for the Robbs switch to open the flow when the fuel pressure is stabilized.
Replace where they have the hobbs switch in the diagram and replace that with the RPM window switch circuit. Many of the window switches need to be installed on the ground side because they can not handle the amps on the hot side of the circuit.
To activate your timing retard, tie the single activation wire on the ignition box in with a new third wire coming off the green connection in the diagram.
Replace where they have the hobbs switch in the diagram and replace that with the RPM window switch circuit. Many of the window switches need to be installed on the ground side because they can not handle the amps on the hot side of the circuit.
To activate your timing retard, tie the single activation wire on the ignition box in with a new third wire coming off the green connection in the diagram.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,320
Likes: 4
From: Kyle TX (Because Mojo Made me fill it in)
Re: nitrous kit wiring help (Vette92)
Dont mind at all.
I've re-read your explanation on why but I guess Im just too dense to understand the difference between having the FPS at the nitrous solenoid (-) wire instead of the relay (-) wire.
I guess where Im confused is why would you want fuel to keep spraying if your FP is too low to allow the N20 to spray? I would think that if FP is too low for the N20, then you wouldnt want any part of the system activating. Im still trying to learn.
I've re-read your explanation on why but I guess Im just too dense to understand the difference between having the FPS at the nitrous solenoid (-) wire instead of the relay (-) wire.
I guess where Im confused is why would you want fuel to keep spraying if your FP is too low to allow the N20 to spray? I would think that if FP is too low for the N20, then you wouldnt want any part of the system activating. Im still trying to learn.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
Re: nitrous kit wiring help (VetteNoob)
I guess where Im confused is why would you want fuel to keep spraying if your FP is too low to allow the N20 to spray? I would think that if FP is too low for the N20, then you wouldnt want any part of the system activating. Im still trying to learn.
When the fuel solenoid opens there is an initial drop in FP. The FP switch can see this at times and kill the system (closing both solenoids). If you wire it to just the nitrous solenoid it lets the fuel solenoid stay open and let the lines rebuild pressure before the nitrous solenoid opens up. No real damage done if just the fuel solenoid opens.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,320
Likes: 4
From: Kyle TX (Because Mojo Made me fill it in)
Re: nitrous kit wiring help (scorp508)
So the suggested wiring of the FPS should eliminate the FPS enduced fuel solenoid flickering that people always complain about with using a FPS. By preventing the fuel solenoid from closing, you wont repeatedly have a sudden FP drop everytime it opens. In theory, even though the FPS may see a FP drop and shut off the N20 solenoid, once the FP levels out, the N20 will automatically engage again.
I've read that if the fuel solenoid is dumping fuel without N20, it causes the engine to bog or run poorly from being flooded or something. Not true?
I've read that if the fuel solenoid is dumping fuel without N20, it causes the engine to bog or run poorly from being flooded or something. Not true?
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
I've read that if the fuel solenoid is dumping fuel without N20, it causes the engine to bog or run poorly from being flooded or something. Not true?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 9,713
Likes: 3
From: Sachse Texas
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: nitrous kit wiring help (VetteNoob)
Yes te fuel solenoid will dump fuel if your nitrous solenoid never opens. As long as your fuel system is up to snuff, then it should be a very brief period that it goes fat. Mounting the FPSS at the solenoid ground does stop the activation flicker and allows you to set the fpss to a higher and safer psi setting.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,320
Likes: 4
From: Kyle TX (Because Mojo Made me fill it in)
Re: nitrous kit wiring help
Makes sense. Looks like I have some re-wiring to do this weekend. Thanks for the explanation guys.
Sorry, didnt mean to hi-jack the post with my questions.
Sorry, didnt mean to hi-jack the post with my questions.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Re: nitrous kit wiring help (4DRSS)
Makes sense. Looks like I have some re-wiring to do this weekend. Thanks for the explanation guys.
Sorry, didnt mean to hi-jack the post with my questions.
Sorry, didnt mean to hi-jack the post with my questions.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,320
Likes: 4
From: Kyle TX (Because Mojo Made me fill it in)
Re: nitrous kit wiring help (4DRSS)
Have you been having problems with the FPSS causing flickering or surging?
