Oh, OK...........there's where the discrepancy is :cheers: those were AFR street heads as cast vs. the Trick Flow CNC version. I knew there had to be a cattch in there somewhere! :cheers:

 

I've got a set of Trick Flows, but they aren't the 23 deg heads, these heads flow so good ,after my friend got done with them,that I had to flow them twice myself at 2 different flow benches to believe the #'s. I believe they call mine the twisted wegde one's they start out @ about 180cc's and I never had them flowed when they were stock, but now they are 203cc's to be exact, which when compared to AFR (Which I've owned a couple of sets and I think are great!) 195cc comp package my trick flows flow better. You guys can look up the #'s on the AFR's cause I don't have them in front of me right now but my heads flow 246cfm@.400" and 280cfm@.500" on the INT and 200cfm@.500"-225cfm@.600" on the EXH. While these are not mind boggling #'s try finding a $1500 set of aluminum heads that flow these #'s with a 200cc port. I'm sure the intake valve angle has something to do with it but they still cost $1500 and for my 6000rpm 383 I don't think I could purchase a better head. Any respectable head manufacturer should have a good head , the key is choosing the right port and valve sizes for your application. I'll post HP #'s as soon as I get it running. Good Luck!

 

after looking at all the posts in this thread everyone seems fixated with the flow numbers. i'm not saying that flow isn't an important criteria, but its not the only criteria. chamber shape and quench area are also important. the only way to TRY to prove any of this would be with an engine on a dyno then swap the heads.....anyone have the money to do that?

the rest is just bench racing

 

john,

Absolutely right. Read Vizard's article in GM Hi Tech for September. Its the low lift numbers that are critical especially as criteria for specing a cam.
:iagree: :thumbs:

 

I used the Dart Pro1 200's...Don't rule them out. The're a great cylinder head!

 

For those who have asked me by email, the excellent and reasonably priced porting guy is at this link.
http://www.lesport.8m.com/

 

Flow is not everything, I agree, but what other way would you measure the ability of a cylinder head? A swirl meter is another good way to measure. Chamber shape is also another way. Valve angle also. Chamber port size is another one.But the most common way is flow #'s and I take for granted that most would know that all the other variable also come into play. If anyone noticed when I posted my flow #'s I also posted the more important low lift # .400" and port size. Most of you guys who say flow is not everything are right, but I would n't trade you my 280cfm@.500" lift heads with 203cc port for anything with lesser flow just because you say flow is not everything. :thumbs:

 

Some very nice links above....you might check with these folks as I see their adds a lot, and they seem to be a bit cheaper on AFR heads. Those Canfields flow pretty good too, but I think they might be more expensive.
http://www.wynnespeed.com

:chevy

 

juan, i agree that trick flows are an excellent product. in fact that is what i have on my engine-probably alittle older than most as they are the 1st gen twisted wedge. nothing but praise from me on that count. i'm tearing down now and the incremental cost to enhance the twisted wedge's vs the buy in cost of anyother new product doesn't make financial sense to me.

 

as i said, a magazine (probably has deep enough pockets) needs to fund an actual running test swapping out the heads on the same block, the same day or two on the same dyno.

 

Have you used this guy? For some reason that seems way to cheap to me.

 

What are the cost that you have paid for similar services?

 

I called Les today; we must have talked for about half an hour. He seems to my untrained brain to know what he's talking about. He claims 30 years of port/polish for racers; he does more stuff for them than for streetable cars. Be forewarned - he has his own (probably justified from experience) deeply-held opinions about various brands of heads and will question why you picked brand A over brand B... He did tell me that with my chosen cam profile, I'd be OK with almost any brand of decent head (like Edelbrock RPMs or one of the newer DART designs) because I'm not trying for anything hyper-radical. He also likes to work with the heads from beginning to end, meaning that you order them and have them delivered to him, preferably from a company he's dealt with before so that if there are issues with those particular units he can take care of them.

[RICHR]