Plug Wire Replacement for '95 LT-1
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: fort mill sc
Plug Wire Replacement for '95 LT-1
Do you have to remove anything to get to the Optispark on the driver's side in order to install new plug wires?
It looks too tight in there to get your hand on the boots. Maybe remove the inner fender well and ASR unit and bracket?
It looks too tight in there to get your hand on the boots. Maybe remove the inner fender well and ASR unit and bracket?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,362
Likes: 3
From: Delray Beach FL
Re: Plug Wire Replacement for '95 LT-1 (rmd8136)
I have read here that taking off the belt and tensioner assembly allows you to access the driver side optispark unit to replace the wires. I did the passenger side on Saturday...maybe this Sunday I will tackle the driver side.
:smash:
:smash:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Re: Plug Wire Replacement for '95 LT-1 (Whitvette)
Depends on how small your hands are.:lol: But really the more stuff you move out of your way the eaiser the job will be. i removed the serp belt, alternator and the ac compressor and brackets. sounds like a lot of work but compared to fighting for space around the opti it was a walk in the park.
good luck
good luck
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 3
From: Huntsville AL
Re: Plug Wire Replacement for '95 LT-1 (rmd8136)
Ok, I did this last weekend. I am pretty convinced that this is the easiest, shortest, least painful way to do the driver's side. It requires a little bit of up front accessory removal time (approx. 15-20 minutes), but in the end it is well worth it.
Jack up the front of the car and remove the left front wheel. Remove the inner fender well (middle piece, 5 bolts). Remove the ASR unit (not entirely necessary, but it's only two more bolts after the fender well so what the heck). Next, remove the serpentine belt and then the tensioner pulley assembly (one bolt on the front of the engine). Now, this is the critical part, unbolt the power steering pump from the accessory bracket (4 or so bolts I think). This is what really makes the job a piece of cake, along with removing the tensioner. Because the wires run between the power steering pump metal tube and the accessory bracket, it is next to impossible to thread them through to the Opti. By unbolting the pump, you can push it forward SLIGHTLY, just enough to get the wires through. After that it's just a matter if getting them back in the wire holders. This proved somwhat difficult with my Taylor wires, so if I couldn't get them back in a holder and they weren't in danger of touching anything hot, I just let 'em hang.
Hope this helps. Be sure to have lots of beer and swear words on hand for the job!
Jack up the front of the car and remove the left front wheel. Remove the inner fender well (middle piece, 5 bolts). Remove the ASR unit (not entirely necessary, but it's only two more bolts after the fender well so what the heck). Next, remove the serpentine belt and then the tensioner pulley assembly (one bolt on the front of the engine). Now, this is the critical part, unbolt the power steering pump from the accessory bracket (4 or so bolts I think). This is what really makes the job a piece of cake, along with removing the tensioner. Because the wires run between the power steering pump metal tube and the accessory bracket, it is next to impossible to thread them through to the Opti. By unbolting the pump, you can push it forward SLIGHTLY, just enough to get the wires through. After that it's just a matter if getting them back in the wire holders. This proved somwhat difficult with my Taylor wires, so if I couldn't get them back in a holder and they weren't in danger of touching anything hot, I just let 'em hang.
Hope this helps. Be sure to have lots of beer and swear words on hand for the job!
