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We use stickier rubber belts or trackbite to help the first; $1000 8-rib pulley systems to increase area; higher belt tension for more force (which destroys your gearbox bearings). But what if you could increase the belt to pulley contact pressure without increasing tension and sideloads? Use a spring and a couple rollers to apply force directly to the back of the belt pushing it against the pulley...
I think the only down side to that is more drag on the motor if the pressure has to be too high to squeeze the belt through. Sortof like a clothes ringer.
The rollers give 4 distinct "bite" points; I don't think it takes much additional pressure to dramatically increase belt friction. Plus you wouldn't want too much or it would destroy the belt. I do know that my "tensioner helper" worked wonders; but I can't add too much belt tension without destroying bearings.
I saw somebody else cut lateral slots across their pulley to give the belt something to "bite" on. Hey if we could machine slots in there to match up with the Gatorback belt, haven't we almost created a cog drive?
There's just gotta be a better way to solve this than > $1000 for an 8rib drive (which is better but not perfect); I mean you can get a complete SuperRam for that $$$$...
10 years ago my buddy had belt slippage on his vortec powered mustang and we used a 2 pulley setup to make more of a loop for more contact area I can't figure how to put my horrible picture I made so you guys can get the jist of it. How can I post a pic? [IMG][/IMG]
If the picture is on the internet somewhere, right click on it and then click properties to get the URL. Paste that in between the [IMG][/IMG] tags. If the picture is not on the internet, you can go to a free picture hosting site like http://www.picturejudge.com to upload.
Hope this helps, I want to see these pics. :cheers:
yeah i like the one where you use the idler arm to not give so easy i forgot who did it on this forum
That's mine too. The pic above was my relocated idler for 270° pulley wrap. Here's the one showing my tensioner assist- note it's still spring loaded; not locking the tensioner in place like the F-body guys do. I see 11psi boost @ 5000rpm from my little P600B on a 383.
My idler arm moves about 3/4" when you "rap" the throttle from idle. Kind of looks like the belt "winds up", then the idler pulls it back taught. I thought the idler was weak, but when the belt is released, it seems to have good tension. I don;t seem to have much "dust", so it appears not to be slipping. I produce 9 psi at 6100 RPM, but I am only turning like 46,000 RPM blower speed vs the max of just over 60,000.
I run a stationary idler on another corvette, and it seems to do fine, with no slip.
Maybe I'll look closer at the idler assy when I get a clutch back in it.
Mine has belt dust all around the ATI pulley area. I was looking a doing gcrouse's idler move. Measured it and I sure do not have a lot of spare space between the alternator fan and SC pulley.
I have been used those Dayco Polycog belts with teeth. They seem to have less slip that Gates belts.
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