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The front bolt of my thermostat housing broke when trying to remove, so I taped it and pounded in a easy-out(screw extractor) which broke inside the bolt. Not even my cobalt or titanium bits will drill through this. Any ideas how to remove this bugger so I can get the vette on the road?
This is why I never use an ez-out on a stuck bolt. There are several other ways that work better. But, now that you are there here is the solution; I assume you don't want to take the manifold off and take it to a shop.
You can take a good punch and chip away at the bit. It is brittle and it will eventually break up. Keep blowing it out with air with a rag around the hole so pieces don't go all over the engine.
If you don't have too much stuck in it I have used a carbide tip in my Dremel to grind the Ez-Out away. Bits are about $10 and you will need at least a couple of them.
When I took mine bolt out I ended up drilling it to the next size up and retapping.
If neither of those approaches suit you, you can take it to a machine shop where they deal with stuff like this and have experience.
You have a Bi*ch of a problem. At that point I usually have several beers and get a good nights sleep after cursing a lot.
LaVidaLoca's advice is sound. A carbide tip Dremel tool is about the only thing that will drill hardened bits. Be Patient. Don't get antsy and compound the problem.
Once the broken bit is out, soak the remaining bolt with penetrating oil overnight. If you have a propane torch, gently heat the area around the bolt. Then soak the bolt again. At this point a new extractor should work. If not, drilling for a larger bolt is your only option unless you are very good with a drill and tap. Quite hard to do freehand. Professional help would be in order.
Prevention is the key. Anytime dis-similar metals are joined (steel bolt/aluminum head) or high heat is expected (exhaust bolts/spark plugs) a good anti-seize compound is mandatory. Unfortunately, the factory forgets this sometimes.
Try to get that easy out, out. i never use easy outs because if they break your in for a major pain. The best method I have found for removing broke bolts is a drill and a small chisel. Start by center puncing the broke bolt and then drill with a small drill bit. Then just keep going up in bit size untill you get close to the threads. With most of the bolt drilled out you should be able to knock the rest out either with a small chisel or an old screw driver. Tyhe atvantage of drilling is that if you mess up you can install a helicoil.
I bet that one made you say a lot of ugly words. I have done this before with a tap in a cast iron block. It can be a big problem. On the cast iron, I ended up using a cutting torch and blowing the tap out. I was able to retap the hole. I was very lucky and am pretty good with a torch. You have a bigger problem because you have aluminum to work with. In another instance I was able to use a torch to remove the temper from the tap and actually drill it out. To do this you need to know a little about metalurgy. I learned this technique from blacksmith books. A company called Lindsay's books, sells a book that tells how to make a metal disentegrater to burn out broken taps and ezy outs. I haven't done that one yet but have the book. If you are good with a torch and know how to take the temper out of metal, you might want to try. If you can get the temper out, you should be able to put a punch mark in the ezyout and then drill it out. I would be careful and step drill it also. However you fix it, it is going to be a lot of work and time. Good luck! :troll
Thanks for the help guys, I will get a torch tomorrow and will try the heat method since no bit will drill through that easy-out and even chiping is not working.
:cheers:
If you have those cheap easyouts that just screw in backwards I suggest you throw all of them away now. Been there, done that. I think snapon sells some that have a shoulder on then that prevent them from screwing in too far. the kind that just screw in are just making the problem worse since they have a tendency to expand the broken stud even more in the hole.I have also used the square tapered ones you hammer in the hole but even they are prone to breaking. Assuming there is still enough 'meat' between the easyout and the original edge of the tapped hole you could try drilling real small holes around the edge of the easyout to loosen it up. In any case its a pain in the butt and time consuming job.
Thanks DaveD, this is the last time I use easy outs since I cannot drill it out. I will try heat tomorrow and will try your method, but there is not much meat left on the bone.
Have been removing broken bolts from both steel as well as aluminum for the past 30yrs. Tip number one...patience. Tip number two....use a left handed drill bit . (Hanson Drill Bits) Once you've drilled a pilot hole, drill the hole closest to the required size to tap...most times when drilling the larger hole the left handed bit will catch the threads and back the remaining part of the bolt out. Clean up the threads with a tap and coat the new bolt with anti-seize or dielectric grease.
Just my opinion....
Save the Wave...Dave :seeya
1..find a nut slightly bigger than the stud
2..place over the stud and weld with 7018 arc or mig( you must penerate and fuse the stud to the nut)
3..let the bolt cool on its own..then remove(same thing as heating with torch, but this is controlled expansion. this is actually what loosens the thread!)
4..this works 99% of the time even if the stud is broken off slightly below flush :thumbs:
I AM READY TO GIVE UP :banghead: How far can I drive the car without coolant to a garage that can mig weld a bolt to the one stuck INSIDE the TPI (or whatever the housing is called where the thermostat resides)? I cannot remove that broken sucker! If it cannot be removed, then can I get the thermostat housing welded on one side or can I use JB Weld and pray the thermostat never fails again? I am getting quite desperate since it has been four days without my car and riding the bike in the rain everyday is getting tiring.
:cheers:
Have it towed,,, repair it right... know its a pain to be without, but better right than more damage from driving it.... there. --- just my .05 cents :cheers:
Seek Professional Help. Find a good shop, get the car towed there, explain what happened, and let them fix it right. Smile and say thank you when you pay the bill.
You have given this problem your best effort, and should be proud of your attempts to correct the situation. The stuck bolt was not your fault. Stuff happens! There may be a hundred guys on the forum who can fix this problem themselves, but most of us probably cannot.
" A man's got to know his limitations" --- Clint Eastwood.
The important thing at this point is to get the Vette fixed right. Some time in the future the thermostat will go out again, and you will need to face those bolts again. Might as well make it easy the next time. I have certainly been there in your position.
I took the car to a shop that employs a mechanic with ALOT of vette expereince and he quoted at least 1/2 day work if the bolt came out easy (400.00 CDN). I just re-installed everything with a new gasket and sealant with one screw in the back and a c-clamp holding down the front. I will give the car a test run tomorrow after the sealant has had time to set. What are your ideas on this?
:cheers:
Fix the bolt a C-clamp may,and i repeat may, work for a temp solution but you need to get that old bolt out and a new one in. I have no idea abou the conversion rate but that sounds way high. I would think you can get a machine shop to remove a broken bolt, even with the broke tap for around a $100 US, But that is just a guestament.
...I will give the car a test run tomorrow after the sealant has had time to set. What are your ideas on this?
:cheers:
Now that you have it running, drive around to some local shops until you find a shop that doesn't charge you an arm & leg for a routine job. I needed some O2 sensor bungs welded on some exhaust pipes, the local Vette expert wanted $100. I found a welding shop in the same industrial park, charged me $10. The Vette guy's work is excellent, he's just not cheap because there's 10 cars lined up waiting for big $$ mods.