Fuel pump doesnt pump, but makes noise.
How did you wire the FP relay? I think your problem is probably in your wiring. I have an extra pump that is almost new (couldn't use it for the LT1) if you end up needing it.
Wire it this way and it will work
First you remove the ECM
With the ECM removed
Take the White conector (that used to go to the ECM) and wire the fuel pump relay enable signal White ECM plug pin 18/ Drk GRN/Wht wire to an ign source (White ECM plug pin 16 Pnk/Blk wire) then it will work unless you have a problem with the fuel pump or fuel pump relay providing you have not done any thing else.
You do not have to cut the wires (even though thats how I did it).
You can use those blue splice conectors they sell at most auto parts stores.(you know the ones, they crimp on to existing wires and have a second position for a jumper wire)
My car ran fine this way and I know it works.
You need a regulator between your feed line and your return line so the pump stops trying to build preasure.
If you hooked the line from the fuel pump straight to the carb with out a regulator and return line you may have smoked your pump or blown a fuel line off (check the ground for fuel).
Last but not least, and I'm sure you checked, but it does have fuel, right.
RACE ON!!!
I checked the regulator and the two red wires to the drivers side of the fuel relay when its mounted is ground. And when I place a Postive charged wire to it, the pump turns on. :crazy:
With the ECM removed
Take the White conector (that used to go to the ECM) and wire the fuel pump relay enable signal White ECM plug pin 18/ Drk GRN/Wht wire to an ign source (White ECM plug pin 16 Pnk/Blk wire) then it will work unless you have a problem with the fuel pump or fuel pump relay providing you have not done any thing else.
You do not have to cut the wires (even though thats how I did it).
You can use those blue splice conectors they sell at most auto parts stores.(you know the ones, they crimp on to existing wires and have a second position for a jumper wire)
My car ran fine this way and I know it works.
Plus the Passanger side Water sensor drives the fan, so does that go to the ecm and then go to the fan? :confused:
In switching to a carb (uck) and eliminating the ECM, I am aware of only three concerns. First is the already discussed fuel pump operation. Second is torque converter lock up, and third, you will lose your in dash MPG display.
See? It's all pretty simple when you know how it works. Standing by for more questions. Good luck, and...
RACE ON!!!
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Something is SERIOUSLY "F" ed up here. When you turn the key to the "on" position, the ECM is supposed to run the pump for 2 seconds to prime the system. Without the engine running, the pump should NOT run, key in and on, or not. As another stated, I too had the pump bracket break and the discharge hose pulled out of the pump, and it ran great, laying in the bottom of the tank and pumping fuel, nowhere. I doubt, under the circumstances, that this is your problem. As a test try jumping terminals "A" and "G" on your ACLC connector, with the ignition switch in the "run" or "on" position. If everything in the tank is OK, you'll get fuel from the fuel line with this test. If not, pull the pump, you may have a problem that coincedentially occured at the same time. If it DOES pump, you have a wiring problem. Good luck, and...
RACE ON!!!
:confused: Eliminate the ECM? IS it possible to do this and keep the guages working and everything running fine? How exactly did you do this? And how can I access the ECM? I cant get to it, is their a special way to remove the cover plates of the interior? Or do I have to tear apart the whole dashboard down? :confused:
Plus the Passanger side Water sensor drives the fan, so does that go to the ecm and then go to the fan? :confused:
You will loose by removing the ECM is MPG as stated, but you lost that any way when you went to the carb.
You will also loose the ability to lock up the converter, but same as before you lost that with the carb as well.
I did this conversion so I know it works just follow the steps I have given in my other post and all should be fine, and that includes figuring a way to lock up the convereter. I have a temp wiring solution using a togle switch but recomend buying the kit from Bow Tie transmisions for $70.
[Modified by ejfagala, 7:00 PM 9/28/2003]












