I've read everything here on ride control, and didn't see anything like this. I have a 92, and couldn't feel any difference when I moved the switch. I realized that the Service ride control light didn't come on at start up. Sure enough, it had been removed. I replaced it, and recovered codes 31, 32, 33, and 34. Does this indicate 4 bad actuators? I thought it would have been odd for all 4 to be bad, and was hoping some one might have an idea of something else to check. I don't know if if this is related, but after I but the car in gear, and move about 20 feet, I hear what sounds like a grinding noise for about a second and a half. It happens every time. Is that the test for the ride control?

Thanks to everyone, great forum, I've learned so much already. I have other qeustions about potential transmission problems, but that's for later.

 

I would try to reset the system (pulling the fuse) and try again. Either that or something they all have in common is wrong.

The noise you hear is the ABS going through it's self test. The pump runs for a moment when 3 miles an hour is reached. At least that works.... :thumbs:

 

Check your front shocks & see if they could have been reolaced with non-FX3 shocks. If the original shocks are still in place there shud be a black cap & wire running to them??????

 

Good tip. Check to see if they are present, then clear all the codes and see what comes up.

 

Yep, they're the original(correct) shocks. Can I clear the codes by pulling the fuse and replacing it?

 

Never tried it that way. I just jumper the ALDL ports.

 

OK here is what we have learned from our 94 vette and via the service manual.

The codes your are getting are all 'out of position' errors (31-34 lf, rf, lr, rr). We got the same thing on our right front. It turned out that the gear on the top of the shock was broken as well as the gear inside the actuator, however the actuator still moved correctly, albeit the shock shaft was able to spin all the way around, hence the 'out of position' error.

When you turn on the key to run without starting the car, each actuator should rotate counter-clockwise about 90 degrees, then clockwise about 90 degrees, then counter-clockwise again, but only about 20-30 degrees (to leave the position at a basic setting for the initial start of driving).

You should have someone turn-on the key, while you hold the top of the front shocks (actuator) and any part of the rear shocks, and feel them for vibration -- i.e. the actuator moving. it is easy to feel and to hear.

After you have done this and confirmed each is moving, then try and pull the spring clip off of one of the front ones (it it engaged into the shock 'cap' at three points and may pull-out to the rear of the car like ours), then examine the the top of the shock's gear and the inside gear of the actuator. if either is broken, then you have the same problem we had and will need to replace one or both.

By the way, pulling the 'fuse' doesn't reset the codes, you need to follow the reset procedure in your manual (the 1994 manual confusingly says: "ground pin '3' of the DLC for 2 seconds and repeat the procedure twice for a total of 3 groundings"). We found this to be confusing but believe it just means to groung it for 2 seconds, pull it, quickly do it again, pull it and then quickly do it one last time, all while the key remains on. However, once you turn-off the key and then back on again, it will perform the diagnostics and testing of the actutators and reset the codes again, which might be the same ones, leading you to think (as it did us) that the reset didn't take.

P.S. on the 94, pin '4' is ground, so a small paper clip between '3' and '4' was how we read the codes and to reset them)

Hope this helps...good luck.

:flag

 

Thanks for the info. I'll have to dig into it this weekend. I have feeling it might just have to stay this way for a while. I just feel lucky to finally have this car.

 

Good info, you've got to remember though, you have the OBD2 port. His is the OBD1. The pin holes you are describing are not correct.

 

For a 12 pin DLC, I believe you use pins A&C for FX3 codes.