Tranny temp
And where would one mount an external cooler if it was deemed necessary? I see no available space anywhere that wouldn't compromise the efficiency of the components already there.
Temperature problems in the Vette are very common. Not too many want to spend $500-600 on a good all aluminum radiator, but if you want the engine and tranny to run cooler, you need to make the investment.
Sounds like you have a transmission temp gauge. Install a tranny cooler and see if there is a difference.
[Modified by Beth396, 7:42 PM 10/6/2003]
In 80F to 90F temperatures here I have yet to see 200F coolant/oil/ATF temp. Depending on ambient temps, my coolant runs in the 173 - 195F range, my ATF in the 150 - 195F range and my motor oil in the 180 - 200F range.
In terms of optimum temps: Coolant should be 180 - 200F, motor oil should really be 200F and ATF should be 150 to 175F for max longevity. Once you go over 200F on the ATF, it really reduces life of the fluid. I would mount the biggest ATF cooler you can fit right in front of the steering fluid cooler. Not the best spot, but it will do.
Temperature problems in the Vette are very common. Not too many want to spend $500-600 on a good all aluminum radiator, but if you want the engine and tranny to run cooler, you need to make the investment.
Sounds like you have a transmission temp gauge. Install a tranny cooler and see if there is a difference.
[Modified by Beth396, 7:42 PM 10/6/2003]
[Modified by Alex D, 3:40 PM 10/6/2003]
http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/tra...expectancy.htm
Here is what they say:
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"How hot is too hot? The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid is between 175 and 225° F. At approximately 240° F, important additives in the ATF begin to cook. The result is the formation of varnish inside the transmission. At approximately 260° F, internal transmission seals (which are typically manufactured from a polyacrylate material) begin to harden. The end results are leaks, both internal and external, simply because the seals lose their elasticity. At approximately 295° F, transmission clutch plates begin to slip because the oil is breaking down further. At approximately 315° F, seals and clutches effectively burn out. Carbon forms in the oil and for all intents and purposes, the transmission is junk. Just for your information, a typical transmission will die within 2000 miles if subjected to 300° F+ heat."
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TRANNY OIL CHANGE MADE EASY:
It is however very easy to change the tranny fluid on the LT1/4 cars. The ATF cooler line on the top of the right hand side radiator tank is the hot oil coming from the tranny. If you want to change the oil, just disconnect it and slip a hose over the line. There is plenty of space to do this. Route that hose into a bucket with quart markings and start the car. Make sure to fasten the hose somehow to the bucket so it doesn't slip out when the oil begins to flow. Pump the old oil into the bucket. I got about 7 quarts out that way. When the oil out of the hose begins to sputter, shut the car off. Now you can take the oil pan off if you need to change the ATF filter. When I did this, there was only about 1 cup of old fluid left in the pan. After changing the filter, refill the pan with the amount you removed (read your marking in the bucket. They are actually acurate enough). Do not disconnect the hose yet! You still want to pump another 3 to 5 quarts of the fresh ATF throught the tranny and push the rest of the old fluid out of the tranny and converter. After thats done, replenish what you pumped out and you're done.
This way you will replace over 95% of the entire tranny fluid fill and if you don't need to change the filter, you can do this in much less time than an engine oil change. One tip: Do it while you are on your ramps. More oil will pump out when the car is on an incline.
[Modified by Alex D, 6:51 AM 10/7/2003]
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