OK. I am sure some of you have been following Bob's (Robertpel9) saga. Anyway....we played with his timing last night. I "think" it is set at 10 degrees. This is what we did, so check me.....

1) Unhooked the wire that comes out of the pigtail near the brake booster.
2) Set the timing to 10 degrees with the dial at an idle.

Sound right? Now, here are a few questions........

Bob's balancer and timing tab are not in the best of shape. Lots of surface rust on them. So, there are no visble lines or numbers on the tab. Just the "pointers".

1) When we started, the line on the balancer was lined up on the bottom of the tab. The dial was at 6 degrees. Question is.....is the bottom point on the tab the "ZERO"? If so, then his car was at 6 degrees, if not it would make sense that it was at 4 degrees. (Assuming the next pointer up to be "ZERO"...like my Chevelle.)

2) I set the timing at 10 degrees on the dial to the second point. The motor ran smooth and he said he felt a BIG jump in performance. No pinging (knock) was heard. Of course we will have to have it scanned to be sure. So, depending on where the "ZERO" pointer is...this could be either 8, 10, or 12 degrees. How high can we safely go with this motor? I was running a 5.0 Stang I had at 20 degrees no problem! They come at 10.

-Rick

 

Good post , now cmon timing guru's lets hear some answers :) :cheers:

 

where are these wire that need to be unhooked,, I cant find them
:smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

 

The timing plate is a sawtooth. Zero degrees is a deeper notch than the other teeth and has a hole punched adjacent to the deep tooth notch. Between each peak of the sawteeth is 4 degrees and BTDC is towards the passenger side.

 

WHAT motor ???. Maybe I'm supposed to have everyone's set up committed to memory...but I don't. What year is Robertpel9's car? Mods?
The best way to check for the optimim timing, is to run the 1/4 mile at different settings. I like to start out at spec, and advance two degrees at a time. Tune to the highest mph, not ET. When it pings or slows down, drop back one degree. If it still isn't as good, go back the other degree. It may take more than one run at each setting to allow for normal deviations.
My 9.0:1 compression, stock, Crossfire, likes 14 degrees. My knock sensor is disconnected. Not in order to allow this timing, but because it was sending "false counts". I can elaborate if interested. Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!

 

The wire comes out of the pigtail next to the brake booster. It is a single wire connector. It is very visible. Hope this helps!!

-Rick

 

Yes, I am familiar with this hole you talk about. Problem is I couldn't see a hole on Bob's!!!

-Rick

 

Sorry CFI-EFI.........Here is a description of Bob's car.

1991 L98 Automatic, Borla Stainless Cat-Back Exhaust, K&N Filter w/ Open Air Lid, swapped in 3.07's from the original 2.59's, spare tire delete option otherwise bone stock.

I was hoping you would chime in...you always seem to have som epretty knowledgeable input!! :cheers: Anyway, the question I am really looking for an answer for is which one of the "pointers" iz the zero!!

-Rick

 

I'm not at home, but I think you can go under 0* timing, so the bottom of the tab may not be 0. I can see my timing marks, and mine is at 2* - already tried the 8-10* route. Mine likes the 0-2* range. :seeya

If no one else checks their timing marks, I'll check mine when I get home from work and let you know for sure, but someone will beat me to it.


[Modified by jmrl98, 6:16 PM 10/16/2003]

 

what is this pinging and sending false counts,,, can someone explain it to me please, i dont understand,, is it bad, ehat :cheers:

 

Pinging is "detonation". It is BAD.

-Rick

 

Yes please chime in so we know what setting we are really at. On thing has happened today. There is like a "whining" sound where the pulley are in front of the motor on the passenger side. I di'nt know how this could have anything to do with timing adjustments but anyone have any ideas. It's not a bearing noise it's like a whine and it is not the new gears it is definitely in the front of the car whenre the pulleyes are. As things fluctuate up there (as normal) the noise changes sound a little. All belts are in good shape and everything is spiining right. Any thoughts??

 

I don't have positive info on a 1991, but I think the L98s are similar to my L83. The timing tab has "peaks" and "valleys". The "peaks" are the ends of the tab that are closest to the radiator, the "valleys", closest to the engine. As stated in a previous response, the end of the tab on the right (passenger) side of the engine is BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). If you're standing on the driver's side of the car, it's the end of the tab furthest from you. The furthest away "peak" is 12* BTDC. Also, as stated, the "peaks" are 4* from each other. TDC is the fourth peak, counting toward you. Six degrees (spec?) BTDC, is one and a half peaks (the second valley) from the zero peak. If easier, it's (6*) the same distance from the last peak (12*). Six being half of twelve. Clear as mud? Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!


[Modified by CFI-EFI, 12:12 PM 10/16/2003]

 

So rick, where are we at??????

 

my air pump makes a whining noise, that gets louder with increased rpm. and when you first start it, and the idle is going up and then down while cold, it gets louder, and then quieter. but the air pump is on the driver's side, so this might not be your problem. i've been bumping my timing lately and currently at 10. so far, i like it. i definitly feel a difference in take off :D from the stock 6* setting. if you have msd ignition, are you supposed to set the timing higher?