160 vs. 180 T-Stat
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,469
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From: Winchester Ontario
160 vs. 180 T-Stat
Presently I am running a 180 T-Stat.
On highway driving (75 mph @ 1700 RPM) or so...I am getting 175-180.
Town driving I am getting 180-190.
If I switch to 160 T-Stat would I see cooler temps and would this require a chip tune?
On highway driving (75 mph @ 1700 RPM) or so...I am getting 175-180.
Town driving I am getting 180-190.
If I switch to 160 T-Stat would I see cooler temps and would this require a chip tune?
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From: Almost all Skyline Cruises Vettes at Waterside 1-5
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Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (black_89_vette)
Presently I am running a 180 T-Stat.
On highway driving (75 mph @ 1700 RPM) or so...I am getting 175-180.
Town driving I am getting 180-190.
If I switch to 160 T-Stat would I see cooler temps and would this require a chip tune?
On highway driving (75 mph @ 1700 RPM) or so...I am getting 175-180.
Town driving I am getting 180-190.
If I switch to 160 T-Stat would I see cooler temps and would this require a chip tune?
I just did the switch from 180 to 160. I was running temps around yours, now I am running temps 158 to 170!
I drill a few 3/32" holes in my thermo decks, so I am always passing a little water (that doesn't sound right :D )
I think Iwould stay with your 180 set up. My oil temps are hard pressed to get to 190 and that bothers me. I think oil should be 195 to 200
I may go back to the 180
:seeya
Jack
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (black_89_vette)
In the summer you will unlikely be able to run 160 with a 160 stat because the C4 cooling system has a radiator designed for 180-195 operation and it will not get rid of heat fast enough at summer temperatures to run 160. In the winter you should be able to maintain 160 above 35 mph, but 160 is really too low a temp to operate an auto engine. I would recommend leaving your 180 stat in place!
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Newnan Ga
Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (black_89_vette)
Personally, I would never run a 160 degree stat for a couple of reasons. First, the engine doesn't get warm enough to drive out all of the moisture in the crankcase. This will promote Sludge and cause premature failure. Second With a 160 degree stat, the thermostat will be open most all of the time and can actually cause the engine to run hotter than it would with a 180 or 195 thermostat. Think of it, if the water is aways circulating, it doesn't spend much time in the radiator to cool off, so the temp can actually rise higher than you might expect. With a 180 or 195 thermostat, it will close sometimes and stop the coolant in the radiator. This way the engine intermittently gets a burst of cool coolant so the engine will run cooler. :steering:
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Winchester Ontario
Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (jackdaroofer)
Interesting that you mention oil temps as well. I have a Moroso AccuSump and it acts as a second oil cooler (Z51 car) and under normal driving conditions it usually reads LO on the oil temp gauge. Under hot temps it'll generate a reading and at times under "spirited driving conditions" :D it will also give a reading other than LO.
Right now, I run Valvoline VR1 Racing Formula 20w50 and use about 7-8 quarts, as the AccuSump takes about 3.
The coolant temps I'm getting are fine, but for when I take it to the track, I'd rather see 170 temps than 190. I guess I could let it cool down as well, but that'd mean I don't get as much racing in. :D
First time I went, I had 10 time trials, 3 elims (won a trophy for street class!! :cheers: ) and then had 2 people come up to ask me to race. One was a motorbike which I proceeded to kick the hell out of (not a sportbike), and the second was an older Z24 with slicks on the front and a 3.8L supercharged GTP motor with goodies that ended up running a 13.489. I was the only vette there and undefeated too, heh.
Right now, I run Valvoline VR1 Racing Formula 20w50 and use about 7-8 quarts, as the AccuSump takes about 3.
The coolant temps I'm getting are fine, but for when I take it to the track, I'd rather see 170 temps than 190. I guess I could let it cool down as well, but that'd mean I don't get as much racing in. :D
First time I went, I had 10 time trials, 3 elims (won a trophy for street class!! :cheers: ) and then had 2 people come up to ask me to race. One was a motorbike which I proceeded to kick the hell out of (not a sportbike), and the second was an older Z24 with slicks on the front and a 3.8L supercharged GTP motor with goodies that ended up running a 13.489. I was the only vette there and undefeated too, heh.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: West Islip New York
Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (jackdaroofer)
I think Iwould stay with your 180 set up. My oil temps are hard pressed to get to 190 and that bothers me. I think oil should be 195 to 200
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Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (87NassauBlue)
Personally, I would never run a 160 degree stat for a couple of reasons. First, the engine doesn't get warm enough to drive out all of the moisture in the crankcase. This will promote Sludge and cause premature failure. Second With a 160 degree stat, the thermostat will be open most all of the time and can actually cause the engine to run hotter than it would with a 180 or 195 thermostat. Think of it, if the water is aways circulating, it doesn't spend much time in the radiator to cool off, so the temp can actually rise higher than you might expect. With a 180 or 195 thermostat, it will close sometimes and stop the coolant in the radiator. This way the engine intermittently gets a burst of cool coolant so the engine will run cooler. :steering:
Oil temp controls the burn off off coolant and gas tht finds it's way to the crankcase, that's why I concern myself more about these temps...I like to run cool, so I change oil every two months regardless of mileage, to get rid of contaminants
:seeya
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Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (Spankyellow)
Just out of curiousity... doesn't the engine temp have to reach 180 to get into closed loop? If the temp doesn't get there, the ECM will stay in open loop and your car will run rich, etc, cause it's thinking it's still cold.
Thoughts?
Mark
Thoughts?
Mark
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From: Charleston SC
Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (C4 Newbie)
Just out of curiousity... doesn't the engine temp have to reach 180 to get into closed loop? If the temp doesn't get there, the ECM will stay in open loop and your car will run rich, etc, cause it's thinking it's still cold.
Thoughts?
Mark
Thoughts?
Mark
I belive the system will go into closed loop as long as the temp is above 115 and the motor has been running long enough (I belive it is less than 3 min. but can't remember exactly)
Team Owner
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From: SE NY
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Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (black_89_vette)
I've been running a 160 deg stat & aux fan switch for 3 1/2 years and am quite satisfied with performance, heating and passing emisions. In the winter she runs 155deg F and in 90deg weather she runs around 170deg F.
I've noticed at the strip that I get my best short times and ETs when I launch with coolant temp at 155deg F.
I run a quality motor oil and have it changed at frequent intervals to avoid sludge and corrosive agent buildup.
Our ECM goes closed loop at around 145 deg F so running a 160 deg stat isn's a problem; I pull 31-32mpg highway.
You will need a matching aux fan switch or chip mod to take advantage of a 160 deg stat in city traffic.
I've noticed at the strip that I get my best short times and ETs when I launch with coolant temp at 155deg F.
I run a quality motor oil and have it changed at frequent intervals to avoid sludge and corrosive agent buildup.
Our ECM goes closed loop at around 145 deg F so running a 160 deg stat isn's a problem; I pull 31-32mpg highway.
You will need a matching aux fan switch or chip mod to take advantage of a 160 deg stat in city traffic.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Winchester Ontario
Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (65Z01)
Hmm, maybe I will go with the 160. There's good points to both sides. I change my oil every 5000 km (3000 miles). I have a manual fan switch wired to work one, or both fans whenever I want. I'm guessing that at the track, I should run the fan switch then.
Here's a question, at the track, should I be running the fan switch during the race, or just during prestaging? Also, should I be running the heater on, to draw heat from the motor during run, prestage or at all?
Here's a question, at the track, should I be running the fan switch during the race, or just during prestaging? Also, should I be running the heater on, to draw heat from the motor during run, prestage or at all?
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From: SE NY
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Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (black_89_vette)
I don't have a manual fan switch, instead I wired the aux fan switch to bring on both fans around the stat temp.
I run the heater until I pre-stage, I wait for the other driver to stage, then bring the RPM up to 1,700 launch point, turn off the heater and inch into the staging beam.
In your case I'd also turn the fans off at that time; after you go through the traps turn on the fans and heater to aid in cool down for the next pass.
I run the heater until I pre-stage, I wait for the other driver to stage, then bring the RPM up to 1,700 launch point, turn off the heater and inch into the staging beam.
In your case I'd also turn the fans off at that time; after you go through the traps turn on the fans and heater to aid in cool down for the next pass.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: OH
Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (65Z01)
I have a 160 in mine at the moment. Love it during the summer, and when racing. But now that is it getting cold up here (in Cleveland) its WAY too cold. Takes me almost the whole 10 mile trip from home to work until I get the oil above 150F. Luckily I'm putting it away for the winter this week, so don't have to worry about it. If I was driving it in weather below the 60s on a regular basis I think I would switch to a 180.
Team Owner
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From: OBAMA IS HITLER
Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (black_89_vette)
Here's some interesting reading: http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...ermostats.html
IMHO the 180 is perfect. I had a 160 when I upgraded from the stock 195 for the summer, but made the switch to 180 for objective and subjective reasons.
If you use your vette only as a daily driver, live in a cooler region during winter months, and don't wish to change the oil every 3 months, and see longevity as a critical component, then sticking with yuor 180 is the key. You could certainly go with 160, but expect that the oil must be changed more frequently, as a minimum accomodation.
This is all stuff I learned here! :cheers:
IMHO the 180 is perfect. I had a 160 when I upgraded from the stock 195 for the summer, but made the switch to 180 for objective and subjective reasons.
If you use your vette only as a daily driver, live in a cooler region during winter months, and don't wish to change the oil every 3 months, and see longevity as a critical component, then sticking with yuor 180 is the key. You could certainly go with 160, but expect that the oil must be changed more frequently, as a minimum accomodation.
This is all stuff I learned here! :cheers:
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,250
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From: Greensboro NC
Re: 160 vs. 180 T-Stat (bradvette)
Hmmm...that article says 175 to 180 F is perfect....well, my LT1 with the 160F thermstat always runs 177 when fully warmed up, so that's right in the sweet spot. the stock 180F LT1 thermostat made my car run right at 200 to 210 degrees all the time. these cars run warner thant the thermostat reading shows.
Here's some interesting reading: http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...ermostats.html
IMHO the 180 is perfect. I had a 160 when I upgraded from the stock 195 for the summer, but made the switch to 180 for objective and subjective reasons.
If you use your vette only as a daily driver, live in a cooler region during winter months, and don't wish to change the oil every 3 months, and see longevity as a critical component, then sticking with yuor 180 is the key. You could certainly go with 160, but expect that the oil must be changed more frequently, as a minimum accomodation.
This is all stuff I learned here! :cheers:
IMHO the 180 is perfect. I had a 160 when I upgraded from the stock 195 for the summer, but made the switch to 180 for objective and subjective reasons.
If you use your vette only as a daily driver, live in a cooler region during winter months, and don't wish to change the oil every 3 months, and see longevity as a critical component, then sticking with yuor 180 is the key. You could certainly go with 160, but expect that the oil must be changed more frequently, as a minimum accomodation.
This is all stuff I learned here! :cheers:
