C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Head Job

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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 03:46 PM
  #1  
Ras119's Avatar
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Default Head Job

I have pretty much decided to tackle the replacement of my head gaskets myself. So I may be on here a bunch bugging folks for help. Currently, i have no idea which engine i have since it was replaced 90k ago, and the original owner has no idea or receipt. I know its a chevy 350 with alum. heads, when i had the car looked over they wrote on my receipt that the motor number was CC5108. I did a search and couldnt find any matches. I am assuming that i will need to know what kind of engine this is before i need to order head gaskets???
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 05:01 PM
  #2  
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Default Re: Head Job (Ras119)

Not necessarily, As long as its a small block and you know the bore size and the thickness you want you can just order them. You should see alot of assistance with that title.
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 06:09 PM
  #3  
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Default Re: Head Job (blk90rdstr)

Ok, heres where i get lost a bit. How am i to know the bore size? Will i need some special calipers for this? I guess if i knew some specs on the engine(which I don't have) i could figure this out easily. OH, and does anyone know of a good machine shop in Dallas to get my heads done after i pull them. I've been told this is standard to insure they aren't warped??
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 07:16 PM
  #4  
vette90's Avatar
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Default Re: Head Job (Ras119)

That title really got my attention... :D
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 07:26 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: Head Job (Ras119)

Damn...was hoping there might be a link to a good **** site.

As far as the gaskets...If it's 91 & older 350 (L98), you just need 350 Chevrolet gaskets.

If it's 92 & above...you need LT1 gaskets.

Easy way to tell...If there is a belt on the waterpump = L98...no belt = LT1.
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 07:32 PM
  #6  
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Default Re: Head Job (Ras119)

Oh, I thought this post was about something else
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 07:40 PM
  #7  
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Default Re: Head Job (greggo's 94LT1)

Correction for my above year models...Change 91 to 92 & 92 to 93.
Sorry for any confusion. :blueangel:
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 07:46 PM
  #8  
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Default Re: Head Job (greggo's 94LT1)

Okay, first of all, sorry about the wierd Title, I should be in marketing...which I'm not, anyway, I have a 1990 coupe, 6speed...the engine was replaced 90k ago, and i have no idea which one it is...
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 07:49 PM
  #9  
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Default Re: Head Job (Ras119)

You don't mention the year of the car, but you are confident it's a 350. "Knowing the bore", means knowing the basic size. A 350 has a 4" bore. It doesn't matter if the cylinders are, standard, .030" oversized or even .060" oversized. A 400 has a nominal bore size of 4.125". Head gaskets aren't a precision fit, like piston rings. You can measure the bore with a tape measure, accurately enough to buy head gaskets. I don't know if the LT series engines, with their reverse cooling systems, have different water passages, or not. The LT engines have the optispark distributor on the front of the engine. It wouldn't hurt to have some idea of what you're working on, before you go into the parts store. You haven't given US much to go on.

Checking the heads for warping is paramount, as you indicated. Just about any machine shop can check for, and correct warpped heads. Have them show you how they check them. Then, beg, borrow, or steal, a straightedge and check your block, too. The block is beefier and more stabile than heads are, especially aluminum heads, but don't assume that if the heads are good or not too bad, that the block is OK. If the block has to be surfaced, you've got a REAL job ahead of you. Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 07:58 PM
  #10  
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Default Re: Head Job (flyersfan1088)

Oh, I thought this post was about something else
That title really got my attention...
Whatch talkin' 'bout?


:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 09:03 PM
  #11  
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Default Re: Head Job (blk90rdstr)

You should see alot of assistance with that title.

:lolg:

Glad to hear you've decided to tackle this yourself. Good for you. You can do it.

A couple of pointers:

If you don't have it already, you'll need a good set of tools and a Haynes manual.

Buy a box of Glad bags for your fasteners (except the head bolts)
Grab a Sharpie. You'll need this to label the bags.
Pick up Nitrile gloves (about $11.00 for 100) this will keep your hands clean

A torque wrench is a great thing. Sears will sell you one for $59.00, or you can pick a crappy one up from Harbor Freight. Make sure it reads in FOOT POUNDS, and not inch pounds.

Take notes, and if you have a digi cam or other cam, take pictures as you go, to document where stuff goes. This can bail you out when you go to put it back together, and can't remember what goes where.

Pick up a good breaker bar. You'll need it.

Keep this forum nearby and take your time. If you feel yourself getting tired or frustrated, walk away. This has saved me from more fiascos than anything else. Failing to do this, has caused me more frustration than anything else.

This is my advice. Others will chime in with more.

:cheers:


[Modified by joeveto, 8:14 PM 10/21/2003]
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Old Oct 21, 2003 | 10:24 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: Head Job (joeveto)

I appreciate all the info, I may get some help and pop a new cam in while i'm half way there, but I'm not really sure. I've got new batteries for my digital cam and definitely plan on documenting the location of everything. Anyone have recommendations of types of gaskets to use?
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Old Oct 22, 2003 | 01:36 PM
  #13  
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Default Re: Head Job (Ras119)

I appreciate all the info, I may get some help and pop a new cam in while i'm half way there, but I'm not really sure. I've got new batteries for my digital cam and definitely plan on documenting the location of everything. Anyone have recommendations of types of gaskets to use?
glad to see people doing things for themselves.. good luck.. as for the gaskets use FELPRO top end gaskets set...can't go wrong...everthing is supplied for head job..now you may have to get new timing chain and gears if you replace cam.. also gaskets for timing chain cover.. that extra... :thumbs:
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Old Oct 24, 2003 | 12:34 PM
  #14  
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Default Re: Head Job (Ras119)

OH, and does anyone know of a good machine shop in Dallas to get my heads done after i pull them. I've been told this is standard to insure they aren't warped??
A good machine shop is Wayne Calvert Precision Engines in Denton (940-382-6815). I just got my engine rebuilt by him and am in the process of installing it in my 1990 L98 6 speed. This is the third time my dad and I have used him for SBC 350 rebuilds, and they do an excellent job.

It's a long story, but I also had head gasket problems. An interesting thing about the stock 113 heads, one edge of the combustion chambers has very little surface for the head gasket to seal against, so Wayne welded a small bead around the edges and then machined the heads flat.

Other things to consider:

You may want to get a three angle valve job done, although I've heard a fresh valve job on a worn motor may cause excessive oil consumption. I did this once and had no problems.

If the valve guides are worn, you may want to get them replaced.

You may also want to discuss getting the heads pocket ported especially if you put a more aggressive cam in. After inspecting my heads and checking out the specs on the new cam (TPIS ZZ-9, in this case), Wayne said porting will definitely produce some good gains. I said go for it.

It's good to see you doing the work yourself, it will take some time, but it will save some money, and in the long run you'll have a helluva lot better car. Good luck.
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Old Oct 24, 2003 | 05:04 PM
  #15  
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From: Texas
Default Re: Head Job (Ras119)

head job, cam popping, new batteries for the digital camera.... :reddevil

:leaving:
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Old Oct 25, 2003 | 08:49 AM
  #16  
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Default Re: Head Job (Ras119)

That's some title...
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Old Oct 25, 2003 | 11:43 PM
  #17  
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From: Whittier ca
Default Re: Head Job (joeveto)

You should see alot of assistance with that title.

:lolg:

Glad to hear you've decided to tackle this yourself. Good for you. You can do it.

A couple of pointers:

If you don't have it already, you'll need a good set of tools and a Haynes manual.

Buy a box of Glad bags for your fasteners (except the head bolts)
Grab a Sharpie. You'll need this to label the bags.
Pick up Nitrile gloves (about $11.00 for 100) this will keep your hands clean

A torque wrench is a great thing. Sears will sell you one for $59.00, or you can pick a crappy one up from Harbor Freight. Make sure it reads in FOOT POUNDS, and not inch pounds.

Take notes, and if you have a digi cam or other cam, take pictures as you go, to document where stuff goes. This can bail you out when you go to put it back together, and can't remember what goes where.

Pick up a good breaker bar. You'll need it.

Keep this forum nearby and take your time. If you feel yourself getting tired or frustrated, walk away. This has saved me from more fiascos than anything else. Failing to do this, has caused me more frustration than anything else.

This is my advice. Others will chime in with more.

:cheers:


[Modified by joeveto, 8:14 PM 10/21/2003]
:iagree:

Good luck - we know you can do it!
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