Is there anything out of the unusual I should know about replacing the rear upper/lower control arm bushings on my 84? I have the Haynes manual and will follow the recommanded procedure.
Brimis

 

:lurk:
Getting ready to do my 93 as well.
:cheers:

 

gotta do my 90 as well. feels real sloppy.

 

ditto on my 87

 

An arbor press is really nice. you can get one from harbor freight. I did my 86 a couple of years ago and it wasn't to bad. Passenger side is a little harder due to the a/c compressor in the way. I had to remove the Idler pulley assembly off and also had to take a few other things loose to get it out. The drivers side was alot easier. I got the front end rebuild kit from PST which includes the polygraphite bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends. I would do all of this while it is apart. I had the car up on jack stands and used my floor jack to release the spring pressure and also to re-assemble.
It is pretty straight forward, just labor intensive. Well worth the effort. afterwards you will want to do the rear also. Shoot me an email if you have questions or problems.

FP

 

Your manual will likely show the control arm R & R, but you'll be on your own For the bushing install. If you go to the Chevy dealer for those bushings, you will find out that they aren't offered as a separate item. Chevy wants to sell you new A arm assemblies, with the bushings. Of course Energy Suspension, PST, and others sell the bushings, but the factory (and probably Haynes, too) won't be much help in the bushing replacement, part of the job. I cannot offer any help, as this is on my "to do" list. Due to the lack of a press and fixtures, my plan has been to take these parts to a suspension shop to install the bushings (and maybe the lower ball joints) in the A arms. Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!

 

I beliee he's only dealing with the rear. Am I correct on this?

I did my rear a couple of years ago and it wasn't difficult. the hardest part was drilling out the oil bushings.

When I asked, I received mixed responses on whether or not to use polyurethane bushings; some said yes, others no. I went with them.

Haven't had a problem yet.

I did install zerk fittings on each bushing by drilling and tapping holes and screwing in the grease fitting. So far the bushings have remained quiet, but with all that high compression exhaust sound, who could tell anyway.

I only had to use my bench vice, electric drill and the necessary wrenches/sockets to make the swap.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

Are you going with rubber or polyurethane?

 

Jake, You are right.
I saw, "rear" last night, and decided not to post. I missed it this morning. However, the same situation applies to the rear control arm bushings, as I stated, refering to the inner "A" frame bushings. GM doesn't offer replacement bushings. Also, my Helms doesn't show the replacement of the bushings, only the R&R of the arms. He (and I) will have to rely on those of you who have actually done it. Thanks for straightening me out, and...

RACE ON!!!


[Modified by CFI-EFI, 1:04 PM 10/24/2003]

 

I just did both sides. The only difficulty I had was getting the holes to line back up to reinsert the bolts, and that was only minor. I used a vice to press out the old bushings and inserts, a dremel with a wire wheel to clean up the control arms, and pushed the new bushings/inserts in by hand. All in all, about a half hour per arm.

I had a HELL of a lot more trouble with the support rod bushings in the rear. Again, getting everything to line up on reassembly. Nothing major, just a couple of colorful words.

I also replace rear wheel bearings and half shaft U joints while I was at it. It really helped the way the car handled. Just be sure to have the car aligned when you are done.

Drop me a note if you run into any trouble. I am quite familiar with the rear suspension now


OH....almost forgot one VERY VERY important tip. Put a piece of masking tape over the hole in the frame of the car where the control arm bolt is, or you WILL drop the nut in there and you WON'T be able to get it back out. Alternately, use vice grips instead of a wrench to back up the nut so you don't lose it forever into the frame. I was lucky enough to read this tip from someone else prior to doing mine. This saved me from what would have been a PITA. Just a word to the wise


[Modified by Frizlefrak, 2:40 AM 10/25/2003]