Has anyone noticed a decrease in driveability with the MAF screens and/or the heat sink removed?

David

 

only removed the rear screen, but no issues

 

no

 

both screens were removed and heat sink grinded down before i got the car. but i have not found any problems

 

Both removed and no problems

 

All systems are a go

 

All screens and heat sink are gone, and mine runs like a champ. Carry my stock MAF tightly wrapped/padded in the rear compartment just in case of mishaps. :lol:

 

Both screens removed, heatsinks intact, no problems for 2 years.

 

Are there two screens on a 1996 LT4? And can you use the old bellows clamps? What else should I change while the MAF is off?
Thanks :chevy

 

LT1/4 only has one screen in front of the sensor wires. No heat sink either.
I can't tell any difference in drivability with the screen out.

 

There is only one screen on 1992 - 1996's. It is as much a straightening vane to help insure laminar air flow onto the MAF wires/diodes as it is a screen. That's why it has the honeycomb pattern and also why it's like 3/8" thickness (??... rough guess on thickness haven't looked in awhile).

Leave it in place on your LT4. Removing them on 92 - 96's can mess up the MAF's calibration.





[Modified by Lone Ranger, 9:22 PM 10/25/2003]

 

Thanks Ranger,I will just leave it alone.
I have installed a K&N and open frame and moved the AIR Sensor from the front of the bellows to the air box.And Hyper-Tech programmer 160 stat and air foil in throttle body. Breathless Fuel pressure regulator (stock one started leaking) set at 48 PSI. Stock 96 LT4 ZF 6 speed. Does Redline or Mobil One make better fluids for tranny and rear end????
Thanks Louis :chevy

 

Some go with synthetics for the transmission and differential but all it really achieves is to quiet some gear whine noise. Regular service with the OEM recommended fluids will yield good service life.

Relocating the IAT (Intake Air temperature) sensor doesn't do anything on an LT1 or LT4. The AFPR (Adjustible Fuel Pressure Regulator) is good to have around for later if you plan to do the meat and potatoes mods like head porting, long tube headers, hotcam, 52mm throttle body, and a catback exhaust... your engine may need the extra fuel pressure then, but in stock form the ECM will just remove any extra fuel the AFPR might provide that is over and above stock psi.

As for the air foil, well, its a frequent topic around here. Most say they do nothing. They probably help some, or else the after market throttle bodies would not have airfoils built into their designs. But it can only really help at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) i.e. when the throttle body butterfly plates are pegged flat-open, here's why: The whole concept of the air foil is to smooth airflow and concentrate airflow into the intake. No matter how smooth the air foil makes the air momentarily before it hits the throttle butterfly plates, as soon as it hits those plates if they are angled (i.e. part-throttle operation) the air gets deflected and chopped up again. If the butterflies are flat-open (WOT operation) then the smoothed air from the air foil probably doesn't get chopped up much or pick up much turbulence off the throttle plates. This is assuming that the throttle cable is in proper adjustment and the throttle plates are indeed pegged to flat-open (wide open) when the gas pedal is floored. Pays to check adjustment of the throttle cable-- some slack can creep in over time and a floored gas pedal may not in fact peg the throttle plates wide open and which also means the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) would not be hitting full WOT voltage, which would mean the ECM (Engine Control Module) does not kick into PE mode (Power Enrichment). PE mode, among other things shuts off EGR and also draws air/fuel mixture ratio info from a stored table and ignores input from the oxygen sensors. So if the throttle cable is out of adjustment obviously the engine doesn't give full power when the pedal is punched.

<edit> P.S.: I see you have a Hypertech PP III. Don't use the Engine Power Tuning feature. General consensus here, and some dyno backed up reports from forum members, are that the Hypertech Power Tuning doesn't help and in some cases actually reduces hp/tq by a few. Main use for the HPP+ and HPP3 units is in combo with a low temp thermostat you can program the radiator cooling fans to activate at a lower temp than the OEM programming allows. Good for compensating for other size tires and for differential gear ratio changes, too.


[Modified by Lone Ranger, 8:40 AM 10/26/2003]

 

I checked the cable at the throttle body last year, WFO is there. I was told since I live in a HOT climate that moving the sensor from the bellows to the air box that my computer would read cooler air and NOT retard the timing. Thanks for the advise.
Louis :seeya
PS I have not had my Vette (96 LT4) on a dyno but I know I did not loose any H.P. as I have raced my neighbors 1998 C5 Auto and when I reprogrammed and 160 stat I gained about two feet in each gear when we raced (really) :chevy


[Modified by Louis Bartay, 3:05 PM 10/26/2003]

 

Thanks to everyone who replied to my question about removing MAF screens.

David

 

nope :nonod:

 

Nope to what? I assume you mean to leave the screen in? :chevy :thumbs:

 

Screens gone, no problems.