I've been doing a bit of on again, off again research on aftermarket systems and have almost reached the conclusion that the VKE 1000 mentioned in numerous posts in the past will meet my basic needs.

I have several rhetorical questions / observations:

1) I assume that the oem alarm can be armed when the door is open either by using the power door lock switch or my using the remote door lock button (in as much as I will still have the keys in my hand while I am closing the door).

2) I don't know how, but it would seem to be relatively easy to set up some sort of relay connection to fool the car into thinking the door was still open (bypass a door closed switch or activate a courtesy light switch) and permit arming the system while the door is closed. Any thoughts?

3) If the hatch is released by the remote - the alarm will sound, unless the doors have previously been unlocked (to disarm the alarm). Again, could a relay be employed to deactivate the alarm when going directly into the hatch?

4) I see several folks mentioned purchasing units that are "plug and play" from several different suppliers in the price range of $260 - $300. If these are truly plug and play - then it would seem possible that someone could reverse engineer the wiring requirements for the VKE 1000 (or any other brand unit for that matter) and prepare a harness that could be replicated and prepared outside the vehicle - eliminating or reducing many of the required splices...

Just a few observations -

:chevy

 

As you note, you have to arm the system before closing the door. If you use the remote after closing the door, the car will lock but the alarm will be disabled.

When you unlock the door, the system I bought (made by design tech) does not disable the alarm as quickly as is needed and the horn will honk( a short beep), which surprises people near the car. Apparently, the door lock moves faster than the disabling relay.

I would strongly recommend a system that is plug compatible even at a much higher price. I found cutting and splicing wires to be very difficult. Not only was the car wired with a different color code than the factory manual but I had to locate a specific black wire in a bundle that had about 5 black wires in it.

 

Correct.

Definately possible, but not trivial. THis is because you would need to simulate a sequence of events, which is not really easy with basic relays. Normal 12V relays basically respond instantaneously so you will need slightly more complicated logic circuits.

Yes, very simple solution involving two diodes (no relays).

Possible, if you can find the correct connectors. 99% of the connections can be made at the CCM.

Hope that helps.