Why is there a 2" cut out on the passenger side header flange that mounts to the head?

 

Ultimately I am not sure, but it makes the install easier because you can bend the #8 primary out of the way some. It might be there to make dealing with the dipstick easier.

 

I have to agree on the Dip stick idea.

 

:iagree:

 

Hmmm wow I thought there was a definitive reason for this.
Thanks guys! :seeya

 

When I installed my 2149's, I found getting them in to place to be a piece of cake...the dipstick tube was even easy! The HARD part, was getting to the rear passenger side bolt. (One tip: Find a 7 year old, or someone with REALLY skinny arms and REALLY small hands.)

 

If you use a 12 point bolt and pull the valve cover & EGR tube you can easily get at it with a wrench from the top. :yesnod:

 

For the rearmost bolt on the pass head, I notched the bolt with a wizzer wheel and used a 1/4" ratchet with a screwdriver head socket.

 

I did it on a lift. I couldn't do it laying under the car, but it was easy with the car up on a lift so that I could be standing straight under the car.

But how do you get a torque wrench in there?

 

The answer to that is easy.

You dont.


I think the idea is that you put that bolt in part way, and then slide the header back into it. That's how I did it the first time, but i just did it again last night and I put the bolt in last. Either way its a PITA.

I even considered cutting an inspection hatch in the passenger floorwell and doing it from inside the car, but I got it eventually.

Another tip is to get some 1" long Allen headed bolts and lock washers, this made the job a lot easier, but on no. 1 cylinder you have to use the original 3/4" item, 'cos the 1" wont go in. (You'll see what I mean when you get to it.)

Yet another tip, check the clearance to the passenger side engine mounting bolt, you may have to shorten the bolt a bit (or reverse it), and/or dimple the header tube. I did both.

I also had to re-engineer the front Y tube that bolts up to the collector, there was no way that mother would fit. I think there were some dodgy tubes that were incorrectly manufactured, and naturally I got one. Hopefully you will be more lucky!

Just to complete my day in paradise, I had to remove the metal heat shield on the driver's side, the one level with the collector to Y-pipe flange, and cut a hole in the footwell. Then I fixed a sort of shallow soup bowl (steel) in the hole to give clearance for the flange.

1 1/2" Allen bolts are a good idea here too, as these flange bolts are also a pig to get at.

All in all , a lovely job for a Sunday, I enjoyed it so much I would come round and do it for you, and buy you a beer for the privilege - Oh no you live too far away - what a shame :lol:

Have fun!

 

Being that my engine will be out of my Vette it would be really cool if I could mount them to the engine while it's out of the car, then slide everything in bolted up................but that's not going to happen. :crazy:

 

I wish that was possible. Not enough clearence though.

 

I had to remove the starter. :mad

 

[Quote]I also had to re-engineer the front Y tube that bolts up to the collector, there was no way that mother would fit. I think there were some dodgy tubes that were incorrectly manufactured, and naturally I got one. Hopefully you will be more lucky! [Quote]
What did you have to do? I have the same problem. After getting the headers in I thought the rest would be a lot easier but I was wrong. That front y-pipe did match up correctly. I still have a small opening on the driver side. I have tried to bend it, kick it, a steal pipe and used pneumatic tools. It’s almost like the front Y-pipe is a few millimeters short on that side.
I think I’m just going to take it to a shop and have them cut off the flanges and get some inserts so I can match the correct length.
Also I had to grind the driver side a bit cause my auto trans linkage was hitting and I could not get it out of park.
Things I would do different if I had to do it again.
Extend the last bolt on the #8. make it just like the manifold. Actually to all of them if I could. It would be easier to install.
Angle the EGR pipe about 30 degrees for easy install. It would be easier to mod the little pipe it attaches too. The EGR pipe was the reason I had a hard time getting the passenger side in.
Have them cut 2” off the header’s collector and move the flanges forward. I hated modifying my linkage.
And most important, give my self more time that I think I can do it in. I gave myself 9hrs when I should have given myself 15.

 

Oh yeah I forgot, starter has to come off.

What did I do with the "Y" pipe?

Well, the drivers side was too short by abot an inch and a half, and both sides sort of angled down, (or was it up?), when bolted up at the back. In any event they didn't line up. Frankly if I didnt live so far away I would have sent it back.

Firstly I sawed it halfway through on both arms of "Y", and bent them so they lined up with the collectors. Next I sawed the flange off the drivers side and bolted the stub end up to the collector. Then I tack welded a piece of sheet steel to bridge the gap.

OK now it fits, but it is not exactly airtight. So then I removed it carefully, put it on the bench and welded sheet steel over all the gaps.

Easy! :mad

Just makes you glad you paid for a quality part !

(Incidentally, If you havent got a MIG welder, get one! Mine has literally saved me thousands of pounds (er,- dollars to you) over the years, repairing exhausts, making a camber brace, air eliminator, mending gates, wheelbarrows etc. etc. It is without a doubt the best tool you can ever buy. )

The re-installation took me about 2-3 hours this time, but I have no EGR, and I didn't need to remove the original headers.
:party:


[Modified by britvette, 5:04 PM 11/5/2003]


[Modified by britvette, 5:07 PM 11/5/2003]

 

Damn what's with all these fitment problems, I thought these Headers were a breeze to put on from other threads I've read?

 

:iagree: :confused: Its threads like this that scare the cra* out of me :eek:

 

I thought mine were easy to install. The driver side took about 15 minutes and the passenger side about 30 not counting the rear-most bolt. No starter removal, just a couple of braces underneath that are 4 bolts. You might not even have the same ones as I think they are Z51 specific. The toughest part was the y-pipe, which was a tight fit but did go on. Now that I've done it like 4 times its relatively easy. :)

 

Actually when I think about it, it wasn't so much difficult as long and tedious. At no point did I think "poopie, what do I do now", more "oh, poopie, I have to do this now."

Still, anything is better than drinking beer and having sex - er ...no....that's not right :confused:

 

:lolg: