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Are they then easily accesible, or is there a special tool required to pull them out of their housing ?
Yep, you'll be able to get them right out. After removing the pushrod the lifter "lifts" right out. The only time you would need a tool is if the bottom of the lifter has extreme wear causing the bottom to mushroom causing it to jam in the bore when you try to pull it out. If this was the case you'd have more trouble than you could solve by replacing lifters!
Would a bad / damaged lifter give me poor idle quality (or no idle ability at all) ?
My current conditions (among others) are : little to no idle ability, jumping oil pressure, 'clackity' sound about where the lifters are, and the sensation that only 7 cylinders are hitting.
A fellow car buff at a gas station said it sounded like one of the lifters was shot.
I also have a bad quart-a-day oil leak that I cant trace. I will make a seperate post about it after searching the archives.
Its certainly possible. Take a piece of garden hose (or a real stethescope) and try to pinpoint where the noise is loudest. If it is a lifter you should be able to narrow it down to what cylinder or at least a possible couple of them next to each other.
You could also start the engine w/o the valve covers on and see if one of the rockers isn't getting any oil up through the pushrod after a minute.
You could also start the engine w/o the valve covers on and see if one of the rockers isn't getting any oil up through the pushrod after a minute.
Will I not get oil flying everywhere, or is this a pretty safe procedure? (at or near idle).
Thanks.
Keep it at idle, you won't get much oil flying, you'll know right away by looking at the rockers, what lifter(s) is bad. I would be a little concerned about the oil pressure situation though. Is it fluctuating with the idle speed and steady at say 1500 rpm? Asking because an oiling problem can give you lifter problems.
I definatly have some kind of oiling issue. I'm loosing about a quart a day and haven't been able to trace it. It may be a combination of pump issues, pan gasket and rear main seal. I hope the sound is just a lifter and not a fractured connecting rod.
The oil leak has been on going and recently got worse.
Can the oil pump be changed with the pan off, or does the motor have to be out of the car?
BTW: The oil pressure fluctuation occurs mostly near what idle is still left, and climbs to an acceptible level above 1500 rpm.
Sounds as though you're getting OP fluctuation because the idle is unsteady.
Here's what I would do. First find out where the oil leak is coming from. Do this before you run the engine with the valve covers off as you will get some oil going down the sides of the engine making it tough to figure out the oil leak source. Maybe you can clean/degrease the engine first, of course you need to be carefull of the electronics if you do this.
I'm a great believer in "since I'm here already". That is, since you already have te intake off, get everything else you can at the same time. I would do all the lifters because if one went others might not be far behind. Same with hoses, etc. unless they are in great condition. Also with the top of the engine disassembled you can get to the oil pressure senders, that could be your oil leak.
If you hear a "clack, clack, clack" you probably have a bad lifter. If you hear a lower, "knock, knock, knock" it could be a rod.