My climate control shows no flashing lights, holds no errors, lights up and displays fine, but the car has no heat. The recirc button will not stay on either. I have ordered the factory shop and electrical manuals, but it's cold now... I never "hear" the ducting doors move either.
I know these don't tie together, but also there is a continuous current draw on the power mirror/cruise fuse. It immediatly pops a 3A fuse, and the draw increases over time from about 5a to about 8a with the ingnition off.
Any help here would be appreciated. :smash:

 

The air diverter doors are vacuum actuated. I found a vacuum hose on my 90 Vert that had fallen against exhaust manifold, and burned a hole thru it.
Replaced the vacuum hose, and all my actuator doors worked, but I still have no heat. One of these days im going to have to investigate further, but I have a strong feeling it’s the device that controls the coolant flow to the heater core. Cant think of the name of that valve right now.
:cheers:

 

Thanks for the reply, I found the problem with the recirc, still no heat tho. I can find the vacume line you mentioned... guess all those years of building stock car motors doesn't equate to squat on the street huh? Those cars don't need a heater.. but I do.. lol
now... where's that hose connect out in the engine bay?....

 

If you have the factory service manual, head for section 1B1-8. It has the trouble shooting procedure.

A few simple things can be done. With the car at operating temperature, heater set to highest temp, fan manually set to highest position, run car till operating temp and you are sure the engine is warm.

Go to passenger side, feel lower hose, (I believe this is the input hose), then feel upper hose, (return hose). According to the manual, the upper hose should be cooler. This would indicate heat is being moved to the cabin interior. If both hoses are the same temp, check for clogged heater core. These can be back flushed, a real pain.

Now, you could have a stuck temp control door. For this check, turn off heater, turn off car, unplug battery for about 30 seconds, then reconnect. Try to have someone else do this while you are over by the passenger seat, listening for the control door moving. During the C68's reboot, part of the routine is full movement of the temp control door. The controller is logging this movement and noting position and full travel numbers. This should take about 1 min and 40 seconds. See if you can hear some squeaks, noises associated with movement. IF so, the door is probably moving and one would take a good look at the heater core. It could be the controller not responding to temp input. There is a test for that but haven't done it in a while.

Are you blowing fuses. Is that amps or milli-amps?

Assuming no fuses blowing, I would do the simple checks and see what happens.

Let us know.

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks

 

Thanks for the tips and the very descriptive response. I just got the factory service manuals today in the mail ( I hate working w/o them). I will post what I find so that it may help others.
I recently had the battery disconnected due to replacing the fuel injectors, I didn't notice anything moving around, but I wasn't in the car since I was the one working on it. I will have to coax the wife to clean her ears and sit in there to do that check I guess. :lol:
thanks again!

 

Well, 5 hours later, it turns out to be a plugged heater core....
Not too bad I guess, I'll back flush it tomorrow. Now my only concern is that I may end up owning a nice corvette fishbowl down the road... Any advice on that subject?
I also found my short causing the power mirrors and cruise control not to work. It was the vanity lights in the drivers side mirror. The switch back had broken off and the copper contacts were against the visor rod. Go figgr huh? Thank god for factory service manuals. Who'da thunk it?
:banghead: