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Sure did! The left rear wheel started "snapping" on my '95. I decided to pull it apart and check it out. I was expecting the nut to be very tight but found it to be quite loose, very little effort to loosen it. Once I pulled it all apart everything looked fine, I coated the axle shaft with antiseize compound and put it together with the proper torque on the nut. The snapping went away, no problem ever since.
I recommend you check the torque specs for an 84. When I replaced my rear hub on my 88 I had to torque the spindle nut down to 164 ft-lbs. That's some serious cranking considering my torque wrench only goes to 150 ft-lbs. She's been fine ever since.
Not entirely sure, but I think bearing and u-joint wear will affect how tight the axle nut appears to be. The little retainer and castle pin should keep the nut from turning, so something else is affecting it.
I know when my rear bearings were worn, the axle nuts were very loose. Replaced the bearings, drove a few thousand miles, and rechecked the torque... they were fine.
Not entirely sure, but I think bearing and u-joint wear will affect how tight the axle nut appears to be. The little retainer and castle pin should keep the nut from turning, so something else is affecting it.
The thrust washer behind the axle spline also wears over time.
Yeaaaa, 164FPT for my '94 (Helms)...and like Ron above said above, my torque wrench only goes to 150FPT. hmm I wonder if we both have the Craftsman 20-150 1/2 torque wrench? They had a great sale on them for - including tax was about 52 bucks. I tested it with my high priced dial torque wrenches and it's on the money... There pretty long with lots of leverage, and it was nothing to hit 150 on my front caliper mounts.
200FPT hmm thats pushing I think, giving about 10% slop I would think 150-180 wounld be fine. Again reference the correct torque for the year.
Of corse all this is assuming it's a wet value? Anybody read if all the Helms values are wet? I'm to lazy to fiddle fart through this moster books for hours. :D