Clutch bleeding question
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Joined: May 2003
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Clutch bleeding question
I spent most of a day trying to bleed the air out of my clutch cylinders. I did a search and wound up using this technique posted by The Green Rocket:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=336718
It seemed to work the best, the pedal feels great and I can now turn the rear wheels with the tranny in gear and the pedal depressed. The problem(?) is I can still feel a little bit of friction while turning the rear wheels as compared to what I feel when the tranny is in neutral. Is this okay, or do I still have air trapped in the clutch somewhere? I would just fire it up and try it, but I have a brand new motor that needs a proper break in - I don't want to fire it up and have to shut it down again without driving it/breaking it in first.
Thanks
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=336718
It seemed to work the best, the pedal feels great and I can now turn the rear wheels with the tranny in gear and the pedal depressed. The problem(?) is I can still feel a little bit of friction while turning the rear wheels as compared to what I feel when the tranny is in neutral. Is this okay, or do I still have air trapped in the clutch somewhere? I would just fire it up and try it, but I have a brand new motor that needs a proper break in - I don't want to fire it up and have to shut it down again without driving it/breaking it in first.
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,374
Likes: 21
From: Traverse City MI
Re: Clutch bleeding question (FullShred)
I believe the only way to be sure is to start the car first thing in the morning, press the clutch all the way down and attempt to shift from first to reverse and back to first again. You should have smooth shifts with no hesitation. When the clutch is not releasing fully you will have anywere from slight to heavy difficulty going into reverse.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 9,713
Likes: 3
From: Sachse Texas
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Clutch bleeding question (FullShred)
I wouldn't worry about it, the difference is in your second test, you are spinning the clutch disk and an additional transmission gear. It will have more drag.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 6
From: NS
Re: Clutch bleeding question (FullShred)
Although the bleeding method you used should work, it's not what GM recommends. The service manual says remove the slave from the clutch housing, invert it so the bleeder screw is facing up. Now press the pedal all the way to the floor, open bleeder, close bleeder, release pedal. Similar to bleeding brakes. When you hear/see no more air you're fine.
I think you're Ok anyway. You will always feel some drag from the clutch disk when turning the wheels.
[Modified by Atok, 6:38 PM 11/18/2003]
I think you're Ok anyway. You will always feel some drag from the clutch disk when turning the wheels.
[Modified by Atok, 6:38 PM 11/18/2003]
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Re: Clutch bleeding question (Aaron71771)
I believe the only way to be sure is to start the car first thing in the morning, press the clutch all the way down and attempt to shift from first to reverse and back to first again. You should have smooth shifts with no hesitation. When the clutch is not releasing fully you will have anywere from slight to heavy difficulty going into reverse.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Re: Clutch bleeding question (FullShred)
The best way to check, IMO, is to put the rear end up on jackstands (block the front tires of course) and run the car with the clutch disengaged.. and see if the rear wheels turn.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 2
From: Northern CA
Re: Clutch bleeding question (CentralCoaster)
:skep: But you have to wait for the countershaft to stop spinnin, which takes a few seconds. Otherwise it will grind the syncros.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Re: Clutch bleeding question (Atok)
Although the bleeding method you used should work, it's not what GM recommends. The service manual says remove the slave from the clutch housing, invert it so the bleeder screw is facing up. Now press the pedal all the way to the floor, open bleeder, close bleeder, release pedal. Similar to bleeding brakes. When you hear/see no more air you're fine.
If no one has anything else to add,
I guess there's one way to find out for sure - that's fire it up and go. I'll try to take it for a drive this coming weekend.
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