When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Aloha all, I need to ask for some help for my dad's 92 LT1. He recently pulled the heads to do some repair work on a bad plug socket. In the process he removed the corresponding bracketry and hardware to access the job.
Upon reassembly he lashed the valves according to the GM service manual and all seemed OK until it was time to start her up.
Infact, the car was unable to start and run on it's own. There is backfiring coming up through the intake and it's evident from the popping in the rubber intake tract to the TB. It would seem to be that there is a mechanical problem as there are no service codes. Before he goes ahead and relashes the valves or disassembles the electronics again, I wanted to ask you all for your expertise.
Please post up if you know what the problem may be.
Sounds like the valve lash is wrong.Way to tight.If you overtightend a lifter, the valve won't fully close and you'll hear it popping back though the intake. :chevy
How far past zero lash did your manual say?
If it said 1 full turn then you are to tight.
GM states 1 full turn past zero lash but that is way to tight.
Only go 1/2 turn past zero lash.
I didn't go into how to set the valves to much because there are a lot of post on valve adjustment if you need more info do a search and you should find what you need.
Sounds like the valve lash is wrong.Way to tight.If you overtightend a lifter, the valve won't fully close and you'll hear it popping back though the intake. :chevy
:iagree: I would back off the rocker nuts 3/4 turn and then start it up and do a running adjustment. It's not that hard, reinstall the AIR tube's, cut some cardboard to set in the head just below the rockers (to catch any oil), you do not have to install the alturnator (sp?) if you have a good battery. Use the fuel rail cover posts to hold the injector harness out of the way. With the engine @ idle ( don't rev it or oil will go everywhere) start adjusting the rocker nuts in or out to find the point where you feel and hear the Clacking go away this is zero lash, I like 1/2 turn in from zero ( and i have been all over the place 1/4, 3/4 and 1).
Hope this helps, Good luck. :seeya
PS. My LT1 does run with the lash set at 1 full turn, double check all your plug wires.
Thanks for all the help gang. I have relayed the info to my dad and he will be rechecking the lash this weekend. I read the shop manual and it does state 1 full turn once lash has been set to zero. I have always used only a 1/4 turn, but I figured maybe the LT1 runs a little tighter....
Again, thanks for all of the help in the matter, and I'll keep you all posted on the outcome!
Dear C4 Friends: Many thanks for all your help and encouragement. I backed off 3/4 turn on all the rockers last night and the car started right up. In the recent past, I replaced all the plugs, installed new Delco wires, and rebuilt the Optispark. The new wires are not labeled like the stock ones, so I have been very paranoid about their order. Also, when I set the valves initially, I was careful to set 0 lash without preloading each lifter(the lifters all compress as soon as you load them and the pushrod will turn after a couple of seconds), so my settings should be as close as you can get with an engine-off setting. In the "Old Days", I always set the lifters on my small blocks with the engine running and always 1/4 turn in from 0 lash. On this '92, the AIR, fuel rail, A/C-Alternator mounting bracket and harnesses have to be pulled to access the valve covers. This makes engine-on setting a bit difficult and I'm not so sure that engine-on setting is any more accurate. Right now the car is running strong, thanks to your help. EFI-1's Dad
Good job on getting the car up and running. At least you have the option of how you want your valves adjusted. A lot of people set the valves at 1/4 (Including my machinist), I usaly set them at 1/2, but I installed non-adjustable LT4 1.6 RR and they hit torque spec. at 3/4 of a turn past zero lash. My car runs fine so I guess its ok but I may go to shorter push rods to get it back between 1/4 and 1/2 turn.
On my 92 LT1 I have never had to remove my fuel rail to get the valve covers off, if I did that every time I pulled the vc's the O'rings would be worn out. I use the fuel rail cover bolts to hold the fuel injector harness up and out of the way, vc's slip on and off no problem. :seeya
How far past zero lash did your manual say?
If it said 1 full turn then you are to tight.
GM states 1 full turn past zero lash but that is way to tight.
Only go 1/2 turn past zero lash.
I didn't go into how to set the valves to much because there are a lot of post on valve adjustment if you need more info do a search and you should find what you need.