Ok then. We can begin.

1.) To start with you'll want to find an experienced machine shop/engine builder you can trust. Interview the guy doing the work and make sure he understands how to build a reliable force induction motor.

2.) You can keep your block, but you'll want to do something about the caps. I'm not sure if you can splay a 4 bolt block, but if you can do it and run ARP studs, not bolts.

3.) You can buy a rotating kit, but it should most likely consist of a 4340 crank, Rod's you'll need to talk to someone else about, and I've heard great things about JE blower pistons and gapless rings. In all, the rotating kit will cost approx $2000-$3000. Your engine builder should know what the components should consist of. NOTE: You'll want to get your engine internally balanced and get a keyed crank hub. You'll need a custom balancer/pulley for the 8 rib or cogged setup you will need to go with. ASP can make the pulley. (see Bruce, he is making custom brackets for these.)

4.) Valve train-- You can buy a kit for approx $1500-$2500 depending on how high you spin your motor. Again, the engine builder should be able to suggest something that will suit the output and RPM of the motor.

5.) A good pair of AFR heads, matched to your mods will be the key. A good set will run approx $2500 a pair.

6.) Misc stuff. I've heard nothing but good things about the Mcleod Street twin clutch. I have heard the Centerforce dual friction does not handle th HP they always claim it does. DFI system to manage the engine will run about $2500 w/ Wideband option, and a good set of headers and exhaust will run you about $1000-$1800 depending on your collector-back setup.

7.) Cooling. Not sure about the stock radiator for an LT-1. Maybe a good set of Spal fans is what you will need.

8.) Intercooler. GOOD LUCK! You'll need to make your own, or go with a water/alky injection system.

9.) 58mm Throttle body = ~$350

o.k. that's all I can think of right now.....


[Modified by vvv90, 11:10 AM 12/19/2003]