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Just what exactly is this engine. Obviously 383 ci, but what else can someone tell me about it?
Also, has anybody had experience with Lingenfelter Performance Engineering. I'm thinking about spending some bucks on my Vette.
I need some more performance.
A 350 block(4" bore) with a 400 crank(3.75" stroke). 1/4" stroke increase= more Torque, and HP. Needs to use 400 flywheel/flexplate, and harmonic balancer; sometimes a starter change.Some grinding on the bottom of the cylinder bores for clearance, usually a smaller base cam is needed. All parts are readily avaliable,and not too expensive. Do a search and you will find plenty of info. on this.
A 350 block(4" bore) with a 400 crank(3.75" stroke). 1/4" stroke increase= more Torque, and HP. Needs to use 400 flywheel/flexplate, and harmonic balancer; sometimes a starter change.Some grinding on the bottom of the cylinder bores for clearance, usually a smaller base cam is needed. All parts are readily avaliable,and not too expensive. Do a search and you will find plenty of info. on this.
:chevy
Bingo...... Very good info. LPE has a very good reputation.....
From: I live at www.domesticlugnuts.com I sleep in PA
Re: stroker 383?? (Ozman)
Maybe this place could help shed a little light on the cost of parts for a stroker. I'm tryint to decide on a stroker or a ATI Procharger...not sure yet but either way I'm shooting for about 500 HP and Torque. :steering:
Not really. A 3.75" crank with a standard 4.000" bore would be a 377ci which is a common combo when you toss a 350 crank into a 400 block. You need the 0.030" overbore to get the real 383.
Gezzzz guys. I was just trying to explain what a 383" was. A 400 crank in a 350 block. If you want to split hairs even further, Chevy sells a crate motor 383" that uses a 4.00" bore with a 3.80" crank.
A blower would make those numbers (500HP/500TQ) without much trouble, but they're not at all cheap.
Sorry, wasn't trying to pick on you. You just mentioned the fact that clearancing is required on the block, just thought I'd point out the you need to have a bore job done while it is at the shop getting clearanced. FWIW, I didn't need a small base circle cam w/ my 5.7 rods.
I forgot to mention; if you use an O.E.M. crank, the main bearing journals will have to be turned down to the smaller 350 size. Aftermarket cranks are already the right size, and are readily avaliable. You would also need pistons for this application, unless you used 400 rods.(not the best choise).If I forgot anything, I'm sure someone will jump in. :D Still cheaper than a blower.
Gezzzz guys. I was just trying to explain what a 383" was. A 400 crank in a 350 block. If you want to split hairs even further, Chevy sells a crate motor 383" that uses a 4.00" bore with a 3.80" crank.
4.030" bore X 3.75" stroke = 383 cid
4.000" bore X 3.80" stroke = 383 cid
4.000" bore X 3.75" stroke = Not 383 cid
Now if you really want to get your panties in a bunch, Chrysler built 383s for years. They even used two different blocks. The "B" and the "RB". They had different bore/stroke combs than the Chevy(s). Wadda ya think o that???
My dad was a Chrysler man; had 4 383"s in different cars. I Drag raced 383" Dodges until '67; U.S. Army had different plans for me. Couldn't afford a Hemi. NHRA F/SA
My feeling on that is that you'll need to stregthen the bottom to make best use of boost/nitrous. You have to look at your gains and how do you want to get there. I'll nearly double my HP by stroking (needed a rebuild any way) and addind good heads/cam/MRIII/etc... A S/C would be cheaper but is limited to the cast pistons.