Engine block cleaning 101?'s
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 9
From: N.E. WA
Engine block cleaning 101?'s
I have a bare block that has been mostly prepped. (decked, bored, cleaned, etc.) The cam bearings have been installed already, and I have been doing some work with my oil pan and other stuff too get it all to fit right. My question is: Can I still clean the block with soap and water, without fear of getting some debris trapped behing the cam bearings?
Safety Car
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 5
From: Atlantis
Cruise-In I Veteran
Re: Engine block cleaning 101?'s (ANTI VENOM)
I like to clean mine with the high pressure sprayer at the car wash. Using the soap helps get any oily residue out then I follow up with the plain water rinse.
Directing the spray into the oil galley holes cleans debris from the oiling system.
Take a can of WD40 with you and spray the cylinder walls and main bearing saddles IMMEDIATELY after washing (before the trip home).
Also take a big plastic bag or something to wrap the block in so dust/dirt/debris doesn't contaminate the block on the trip back home.
I've done MANY of them using this method.
It's cheap and it works.
You can use the sprayer to clean out the oiling holes in the crankshaft also.
Just be SURE to spray it back down with WD40 and wrap it up in plastic before the drive home.
Don't forget to wipe the cylinder walls down with a WHITE cloth with light oil on it before final assembly. If there is ABSOLUTELY NO residue showing on the WHITE cloth then the cylinder walls are clean enough for assembly.
Good luck with it!
Directing the spray into the oil galley holes cleans debris from the oiling system.
Take a can of WD40 with you and spray the cylinder walls and main bearing saddles IMMEDIATELY after washing (before the trip home).
Also take a big plastic bag or something to wrap the block in so dust/dirt/debris doesn't contaminate the block on the trip back home.
I've done MANY of them using this method.
It's cheap and it works.
You can use the sprayer to clean out the oiling holes in the crankshaft also.
Just be SURE to spray it back down with WD40 and wrap it up in plastic before the drive home.
Don't forget to wipe the cylinder walls down with a WHITE cloth with light oil on it before final assembly. If there is ABSOLUTELY NO residue showing on the WHITE cloth then the cylinder walls are clean enough for assembly.
Good luck with it!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 9
From: N.E. WA
Re: Engine block cleaning 101?'s (CFI-EFI)
I've tried to keep it as clean as possible, but there is bound to be some grinding and filing residue on the block. I massaged the oil drain holes in the lifter valley and slightly radiused the sharp edges on the saddles and such. I took the block in to have it checked for bore, cracks, etc. I just didn't take it back home until it was done at the machinist's. So I am now getting some grit in the block. I can't remember, is there a groove behind the cam bearings or just a hole? If it's just a hole, then no big deal. I have a pressure washer at home, so that is simplified a little. Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Re: Engine block cleaning 101?'s (ANTI VENOM)
Yes, yes, wash, wash, wash, . . .
I always wash mine at least five times with soap and water and rinse it with a high pressure water hose.
Quickly dry and coat all machined surfaces immediately with engine oil to prevent surface oxidation which will develop right before your eyes.
My last cleaning step is to use Type "F" transmission fluid on the cylinder walls, scrub them with the tranny oil aggressively.
I then run clean, lent free white cloths (computer cloths) through each bore until they come out perfectly clean - no hint of the red tranny fluid. This'll call for a lot of cloths.
Then lightly coat with engine oil - I use my clean hand for this, and wipe off the excess, leaving a light coat.
I lightly oil the piston skirts and piston ring grooves and turn each ring to make sure there is no binding/sticking before I index them.
Always think clean, clean, clean.
Hope this helps.
Jake
I always wash mine at least five times with soap and water and rinse it with a high pressure water hose.
Quickly dry and coat all machined surfaces immediately with engine oil to prevent surface oxidation which will develop right before your eyes.
My last cleaning step is to use Type "F" transmission fluid on the cylinder walls, scrub them with the tranny oil aggressively.
I then run clean, lent free white cloths (computer cloths) through each bore until they come out perfectly clean - no hint of the red tranny fluid. This'll call for a lot of cloths.
Then lightly coat with engine oil - I use my clean hand for this, and wipe off the excess, leaving a light coat.
I lightly oil the piston skirts and piston ring grooves and turn each ring to make sure there is no binding/sticking before I index them.
Always think clean, clean, clean.
Hope this helps.
Jake
