Powermaster 9502 starter internal shim?
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Cave Creek AZ
Powermaster 9502 starter internal shim?
Has anyone had a problem with the starter gear being too close to the flywheel with the Powermaster hi-torque starter? I was trying to make this work last weekend. There wasn't 1/16" minimum clearance between the starter gear and flywheel.
At one point I got it to work without the squeeling noise after starting but when I got the flexplate cover back in, I couldn't repeat my results. That's ok because I needed the experience in turning a ratchet. :jester
I called Powermaster today and they said I need a special shim that goes inside the starter that will pull it away from the flywheel by 0.08". Fortunately there sending it free and trying to get it to me by the weekend. Can I buy it somewhere locally?
Things I needed to know LAST weekend....transfer case just went out in my truck and I've had to ride my horse everywhere since both vehicles are down.
Beth
At one point I got it to work without the squeeling noise after starting but when I got the flexplate cover back in, I couldn't repeat my results. That's ok because I needed the experience in turning a ratchet. :jester
I called Powermaster today and they said I need a special shim that goes inside the starter that will pull it away from the flywheel by 0.08". Fortunately there sending it free and trying to get it to me by the weekend. Can I buy it somewhere locally?
Things I needed to know LAST weekend....transfer case just went out in my truck and I've had to ride my horse everywhere since both vehicles are down.
Beth
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 77
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From: Cave Creek AZ
Re: Powermaster 9502 starter internal shim? (Beth396)
They said it would be easy to disassemble the starter and install the two piece shim. It wasn't that easy...I just wanted to follow through on this in case anyone ever needs this advise.
There were two shims. One round shim and a pear shaped shim. After removing the billet block from the starter assembly. I had to knock out the pinion/clutch assembly with a block of wood and a hammer. The round shim went between the starter gear and the billet block. Thus moving the starter gear back into the assembly and giving the additional 0.08" clearance. I had to take care when re-installing the pinion/clutch assembly to keep it straight.
The pear shaped shim went between the billet block and the rest of the starter. No shims were needed between the starter and engine block. I now have plenty of clearance between the starer gear and the flywheel. It started right up with no squeeling.
The wonderful world of "aftermarket" :smash:
Beth
There were two shims. One round shim and a pear shaped shim. After removing the billet block from the starter assembly. I had to knock out the pinion/clutch assembly with a block of wood and a hammer. The round shim went between the starter gear and the billet block. Thus moving the starter gear back into the assembly and giving the additional 0.08" clearance. I had to take care when re-installing the pinion/clutch assembly to keep it straight.
The pear shaped shim went between the billet block and the rest of the starter. No shims were needed between the starter and engine block. I now have plenty of clearance between the starer gear and the flywheel. It started right up with no squeeling.
The wonderful world of "aftermarket" :smash:
Beth
