Anyone know if the wheel sensor for abs can be removed and checked at auto zone or somewhere? If not I do not have an ohm meter, but understand 900-1100 ohm should be the acceptable reading range if it is ok. If I get an ohm meter where do I position the leads to check the sensor?

Alsp thinking about haveing the brakes lines flushed and beld somewhere. Anyone know of a service chain that will do that?

 

If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, you should be able to flush the brakes yourself pretty easily.

I bought one of those "one man brake bleeder" sets for like 5 bucks. I've heard that you can run into problems using those because if it's not held tight you can get air in there. To remedy that I used two men for my one man brake bleeder.

All the set is is a little plastic nozzle that goes into the bleeder screw. Attached to the nozzle is a tube that goes into a small airtight bottle.

Put the nozzle into the hole for the bleeder screw and loosen the screw. Have one person hold the nozzle tight so no air gets in, and they can monitor the bottle to let you know when to stop pumping because the bottle is full.

So while your friend is monitoring it, pump the brakes. It's absolutely vital that you don't let your master cylinder run dry, so make sure to keep some fluid in there. If it runs dry you'll get air in the lines. When your friend tells you the bottle is full, close the bleeder screw (so no air gets in the lines) and remove the nozzle. Empty the bottle and start over.

You'll know that you've finished that wheel when pure, clean brake fluid starts coming out into the tube. It'll be pretty obvious when contrasted against old dirty brake fluid in the clear tube. After you have clean brake fluid coming out at all four wheels, there's pretty much no way there can be any air in there unless you have a leak somewhere.

Also keep in mind that you'll want to do them in order of furthest to closest in relation to the ABS unit, not the master cylinder.

If for whatever reason you don't feel like doing it yourself, I'm sure any automotive shop would do it for you. Just call around for pricing.

Make sure they understand you want it fully bled with all brand new fluid in the reservoir as well. Sometimes they can do a half-butt job.

 

According to my '90 manual, the wheel sensor resistance should be 1000 ohm plus or minus 100 ohm. Disconnect the connector near the wheel in connection. There should be a dark green and a tan wire going to the connector. Neither should have any connection to ground (the resistance to ground should be infinite.

 

After cleaning and examining the wheel sensors, the ABS light remained on. I don't have an ohm meter, or know how to use it, so I will probably try a local shop. The Midas shop said they could hook up a diagnois box that I would drive around with and it would tell them where the problem is with the light. $65.00. He also mentioned that if the previous owner had replaced the rt. rear hub, as he mentioned and the receipt shows a used part, it could be the wrong hub, without the teeth to read that sensor.

Them is some pulsation in the rotors, could that cause the light to be on? The pads and rotors look ok and when measured for thickness showed they could be machined.

It would probably be more cost efficient to have them check it out and fix the abs at the same time they do the brakes. Maybe doing the diagnoisis with the computer bot first.

Does that sound right?

 

First, the 86-89 ABS cars are a little more difficult when troubleshooting. The ABS computer for that year group will not interface with ABS scanners. The test unit for those years is about the size of a filing cabinet. Starting in MY (Model Year) 90, you can hook up a scanner, drive around, and the unit will display each individual wheel speed. You just compare wheel speeds and if all are equal (around + or - 2 MPH), the sensors are good.

Step one in most trouble shooting schemes is checking the resistance. You can pull the ABS sensor connection, place the multimeter in OHMS, connect the probes to each pin, take a reading. Recommend a good Fluke multimeter, take the plunge.

I would check the wheel bearing replacement. If the sensor is connected, there should be a boss for the sensor and the wheel bearing likely has the toothed wheel called the reluctor. Senors get dirty. Removing, checking, cleaning is usually the first step.

Does the light come on after startup and before moving the car? Or, does the light illuminate a few seconds after the car starts moving?

This system can be tough. Make darn sure the person working on this system is up to speed on Corvette ABS or you will be wasting your money and their time.

Do a search "ABS" and you should find some really good writeups.

Let us know.

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks