Procharged Big Block
08-22-2004, 12:05 AM
#182
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: Speedo Indiana
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey man, where have you been? I was getting ready to boycott this forum until you got back but the ZR1 guys basically begged me to stay, ya know...
Anyway, I finally got it all back together and believe it or not it actually runs and sounds healthy. I spent the entire weekend getting it to idle without belching black clouds of smoke...the good news is there is not a mosquito in the entire subdivision now... I finally got the ECU set good enough where I THINK it is drivable...at least perhaps good enough to get to the DMV and alignment shop, and then (on a trailer) to John Meaney or to whoever ends up tuning it. Currently I am having some difficulty in attaining a steady preditable A/F ratio. I think this is due in large part to the radical cam I now have (not so stealthy anymore). One of the Turbobuick guys (a Canadian no less) actually let me call him and he gave me some direction. I'm gonna drop if off of the jackstands tomorrow and see what happens.. Last time I contemplated this action I ended up pulling the motor...I also updated my pictures and I think you will immediately see why there is NO WAY this car cannot scream this time.. it's bullet proof I tell ya as I had my two personal mechanics all over the buildup.
I also installed a vacuum can... and my brake pedal still feels pretty hard though. My motor makes only 8 inches of vacuum, from the can I'm getting 12-13.. I thought I'd get more than that...do any of you have experience with vacuum cans?
Oh, and I'm pretty sure my cooling issues are now under control with the 55 gpm water pump and a larger water pump inlet (from 1" to 1.75").
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ton....net/my_photos
Anyway, I finally got it all back together and believe it or not it actually runs and sounds healthy. I spent the entire weekend getting it to idle without belching black clouds of smoke...the good news is there is not a mosquito in the entire subdivision now... I finally got the ECU set good enough where I THINK it is drivable...at least perhaps good enough to get to the DMV and alignment shop, and then (on a trailer) to John Meaney or to whoever ends up tuning it. Currently I am having some difficulty in attaining a steady preditable A/F ratio. I think this is due in large part to the radical cam I now have (not so stealthy anymore). One of the Turbobuick guys (a Canadian no less) actually let me call him and he gave me some direction. I'm gonna drop if off of the jackstands tomorrow and see what happens.. Last time I contemplated this action I ended up pulling the motor...I also updated my pictures and I think you will immediately see why there is NO WAY this car cannot scream this time.. it's bullet proof I tell ya as I had my two personal mechanics all over the buildup.
I also installed a vacuum can... and my brake pedal still feels pretty hard though. My motor makes only 8 inches of vacuum, from the can I'm getting 12-13.. I thought I'd get more than that...do any of you have experience with vacuum cans?
Oh, and I'm pretty sure my cooling issues are now under control with the 55 gpm water pump and a larger water pump inlet (from 1" to 1.75").
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ton....net/my_photos
Last edited by TONYDEE64; 08-22-2004 at 12:16 AM.
08-22-2004, 06:04 PM
#183
Race Director
Originally Posted by TONYDEE64
My motor makes only 8 inches of vacuum, from the can I'm getting 12-13.. I thought I'd get more than that...do any of you have experience with vacuum cans?
Does boost effect the diaphram/valve operation of the canister in any way?
08-22-2004, 11:17 PM
#184
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: Speedo Indiana
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by vvv90
Does boost effect the diaphram/valve operation of the canister in any way?
09-01-2004, 12:05 AM
#185
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: Speedo Indiana
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Finally!!!!!!
Well, the suspension is aligned, the exhaust leaks are fixed, I've got insurance and license plates... I should be hittin' the road tomorrow.. it's about time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
09-05-2004, 05:23 PM
#187
3rd Gear
Member Since: Sep 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wonder if no news is good news. How did the maiden voyage go? How did she go? Any video?
TONYDEE64 where are you? You took your first ride 6 days ago and we have heard nothing from you. Is it a rocketship or did it blow up?
TONYDEE64 where are you? You took your first ride 6 days ago and we have heard nothing from you. Is it a rocketship or did it blow up?
Last edited by Chopperhead; 09-11-2004 at 09:31 PM.
09-14-2004, 03:08 PM
#188
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: Speedo Indiana
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok guys.. time for an update..
I got the car all back together only to find it smoking what looked like black smoke. I made changes to my FAST box, fuel pressure, new distributor cap (I found two small hairline cracks in mine), and a few other minor fixes like a bad connector to my MAP sensor, and the black smoke went away.. but then I had blue smoke. I spoke with my engine builder and he said "Ya, I've had trouble with those gapless rings controlling the oil in the past".. thanks for the heads-up dude... Also, he stated like many of you have here in this board that you should not use synthetic oil to break in a motor. Total Seal told me to pull the plugs and fog the cylinders with carb cleaner, and put dino oil back in it... So I did. I took the car out on its real maiden voyage this weekend and ran the crap out of it, until the blower pulley came loose and slid forward into my accessory drive belt partially severing the blower belt. I have had this problem before since my blower is a reverse rotation unit which means it is constantly trying to loosen the bolt that fastens the blower pulley to the blower. To fix this Procharger should have made that bolt a reverse rotation....duh....
Anyway, the car also got pretty hot 213 degrees and would have likely kept climbing had I not shut it off, so I have to make some more modifications there to my intake manifold to increase water flow, again. I figure since I have it tore apart I might as well go ahead and have a cog drive made to cure future clippage issues with the 12 rib.
The good news is that although my tune was way rich, I did manage to get a couple of blasts in... from about 40mph or so I gave it some decent throttle and it broke the back tires loose but still seemed to accellerate pretty good. I only managed 3-4 psi since my by-pass valve was not screwed down enough to prevent bleed-off under accelleration. I did this intentionally for the first couple of trips. I can't imagine how hard this thing is going to pull with +15psi of boost. Should be a fun ride. I am really excited, everything works, the cars sounds great (rumpty rump), idles wonderfully and behaves in traffic (except for getting hot), and rides handles real nice. So, it's a work in progress just like I knew it would be.. but at least the blue smoke seems to be gone at least for now.. The rest of it is just small stuff...until I blow it up again. I plan on getting it back on the road sometime this fall before the snow flies. I'm already addicted to boost, that much I know for sure....
Later,
Tony
I got the car all back together only to find it smoking what looked like black smoke. I made changes to my FAST box, fuel pressure, new distributor cap (I found two small hairline cracks in mine), and a few other minor fixes like a bad connector to my MAP sensor, and the black smoke went away.. but then I had blue smoke. I spoke with my engine builder and he said "Ya, I've had trouble with those gapless rings controlling the oil in the past".. thanks for the heads-up dude... Also, he stated like many of you have here in this board that you should not use synthetic oil to break in a motor. Total Seal told me to pull the plugs and fog the cylinders with carb cleaner, and put dino oil back in it... So I did. I took the car out on its real maiden voyage this weekend and ran the crap out of it, until the blower pulley came loose and slid forward into my accessory drive belt partially severing the blower belt. I have had this problem before since my blower is a reverse rotation unit which means it is constantly trying to loosen the bolt that fastens the blower pulley to the blower. To fix this Procharger should have made that bolt a reverse rotation....duh....
Anyway, the car also got pretty hot 213 degrees and would have likely kept climbing had I not shut it off, so I have to make some more modifications there to my intake manifold to increase water flow, again. I figure since I have it tore apart I might as well go ahead and have a cog drive made to cure future clippage issues with the 12 rib.
The good news is that although my tune was way rich, I did manage to get a couple of blasts in... from about 40mph or so I gave it some decent throttle and it broke the back tires loose but still seemed to accellerate pretty good. I only managed 3-4 psi since my by-pass valve was not screwed down enough to prevent bleed-off under accelleration. I did this intentionally for the first couple of trips. I can't imagine how hard this thing is going to pull with +15psi of boost. Should be a fun ride. I am really excited, everything works, the cars sounds great (rumpty rump), idles wonderfully and behaves in traffic (except for getting hot), and rides handles real nice. So, it's a work in progress just like I knew it would be.. but at least the blue smoke seems to be gone at least for now.. The rest of it is just small stuff...until I blow it up again. I plan on getting it back on the road sometime this fall before the snow flies. I'm already addicted to boost, that much I know for sure....
Later,
Tony
Last edited by TONYDEE64; 09-14-2004 at 03:48 PM.
09-14-2004, 04:55 PM
#191
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: Speedo Indiana
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Basically I'm running a 50/50 mix (or thereabouts). I may also add some water wetter, but the mathematics of the situation tell the story. I have 4 10AN fittings coming off of my intake. That collective circlular area equates to .9937". On the other hand, the standard 1.5" diameter outlet which directs water to the radiator from the manifold has an area of 1.766". As you can see that is almost double from what I am running. Not a big deal.. just more work (and money of course). If that doesn't do it the next step is a monster spal fan..which means of course that I will have two barely used fans ($300) sitting in the garage..
11-12-2004, 11:02 AM
#192
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: Speedo Indiana
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In the past few weeks I have been working on a cooling solution for my car. During the past 8 months the so-called experts have caused me to spend an enormous amount of my time (and money of course) by modifying my motor to increase water flow to the radiator. Nothing they suggested worked. Finally, I put a thermostat back in (which was forbidden by the experts) and the motor cools right down to 180 degrees. I think I am also going to reinstall the 33gpm Meziere as the 55gpm simply pushes the water through the radiator too fast as the thermostat opens (or at least this is my theory). I also made an aluminum fan shroud and bought a monster Spal 16" fan which flows 3000 cfm. This fan is used by the Winston Cup cars as well as being OEM on the Enzo Ferrari. I want to make extra sure that my cooling system is bulletproof during the summer months.
I also received by cog pulleys from ASC this week. I haven't had time to install them yet but let me tell you they look cool... I had them anodized Red...I will be running my cog set up with a 36mm Gates Polychain belt which looks and feels like it contains a good amount of teflon. The top fuelers are using these belts (albeit a bit wider) with great results, so I'm thinking my little engine should be just fine. I have designed a ram air intake which I will build soon after I get the cooling under control and get the cog set up installed. Hopefully I will have all new pictures of my motor very soon. I changed the intake plumbing and I think it turned out pretty cool.
Stay tuned!
TonyDee
I also received by cog pulleys from ASC this week. I haven't had time to install them yet but let me tell you they look cool... I had them anodized Red...I will be running my cog set up with a 36mm Gates Polychain belt which looks and feels like it contains a good amount of teflon. The top fuelers are using these belts (albeit a bit wider) with great results, so I'm thinking my little engine should be just fine. I have designed a ram air intake which I will build soon after I get the cooling under control and get the cog set up installed. Hopefully I will have all new pictures of my motor very soon. I changed the intake plumbing and I think it turned out pretty cool.
Stay tuned!
TonyDee
Last edited by TONYDEE64; 11-12-2004 at 11:09 AM.
11-12-2004, 10:07 PM
#194
Safety Car
Originally Posted by TONYDEE64
I also received by cog pulleys from ASC this week. I haven't had time to install them yet but let me tell you they look cool... I had them anodized Red...I will be running my cog set up with a 36mm Gates Polychain belt which looks and feels like it contains a good amount of teflon. The top fuelers are using these belts (albeit a bit wider) with great results, so I'm thinking my little engine should be just fine.
TonyDee
Additionally, Lee should have told you that the colored anodizing is far less durable than the hard anodize clear that ASP prefers to sell. You will notice over time that the belt starts to "eat through" the nice coloring that you have added to the pulley.
Best of luck.
Aaron
11-13-2004, 07:29 AM
#195
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: Speedo Indiana
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by AKS Racing
This is the same cog belt that I used in my design. These belts will last a long time and are very durable (1.22" wide). THough I have been told they can be a bit loud, though I have not been able to tell on my combo.
Additionally, Lee should have told you that the colored anodizing is far less durable than the hard anodize clear that ASP prefers to sell. You will notice over time that the belt starts to "eat through" the nice coloring that you have added to the pulley.
Best of luck.
Aaron
Additionally, Lee should have told you that the colored anodizing is far less durable than the hard anodize clear that ASP prefers to sell. You will notice over time that the belt starts to "eat through" the nice coloring that you have added to the pulley.
Best of luck.
Aaron
11-13-2004, 10:32 AM
#196
Safety Car
All of the colors that ASP offers are considered "hard anodized", it is just that the clear is considerably more durable than anything else, with black being second. This is what I have been told by different companies, including ASP, through the years of having custom pullies/shives cut. I can never remeber requesting clear, but this last time I had shives cut for the cog set-up, I did accept clear, as I was used to the color wear issue. Though black goes so much better with my colors under the hood.
Aaron
Aaron
11-13-2004, 03:10 PM
#197
Melting Slicks
Tony
I am glad you got your stuffs together. You should have a lot of fun when you have it done. My old supercharged vette only making 544rwhp untuned and only pull to 4600rpm. I love it when it go under boost condtion. Here is a shot of my clear anodized parts.
I am glad you got your stuffs together. You should have a lot of fun when you have it done. My old supercharged vette only making 544rwhp untuned and only pull to 4600rpm. I love it when it go under boost condtion. Here is a shot of my clear anodized parts.
11-13-2004, 11:20 PM
#198
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: Speedo Indiana
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Bruce, those pulleys look pretty familiar...
You guys won't believe this, but today I swapped my 33gpm pump onto the 55gpm water pump body... with a bit of fabrication of course, and what do you know the whole system was able to haul the temp down to 165 degrees (and it may have kept going) idling in my garage even though I have a 180 degree thermostat. I'm not even sure how it did that!!!! Anyway, I turned off the fan and waited until the temp got up to 200 degrees, turned the fan on (the temp continued to climb to 207 degrees) and then the temp came down to 180 degrees in about 3.5 minutes which is excellent. Right now it is in the low 40s so it's not a real summer type test... and I don't have the intercooler in front of the radiator at the moment....but I'm willing to at least drive it this summer and see what happens... if it still gets hot I'll just throw a mechanical pump on it.....Well, wouldn't you figure it... I'm about done as the snow is about to start...oh well....
You guys won't believe this, but today I swapped my 33gpm pump onto the 55gpm water pump body... with a bit of fabrication of course, and what do you know the whole system was able to haul the temp down to 165 degrees (and it may have kept going) idling in my garage even though I have a 180 degree thermostat. I'm not even sure how it did that!!!! Anyway, I turned off the fan and waited until the temp got up to 200 degrees, turned the fan on (the temp continued to climb to 207 degrees) and then the temp came down to 180 degrees in about 3.5 minutes which is excellent. Right now it is in the low 40s so it's not a real summer type test... and I don't have the intercooler in front of the radiator at the moment....but I'm willing to at least drive it this summer and see what happens... if it still gets hot I'll just throw a mechanical pump on it.....Well, wouldn't you figure it... I'm about done as the snow is about to start...oh well....
