roller rocker question
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: 1,000,000,001 Posts
roller rocker question
I am going to buy some 1.6RR's,,, what do i need to do this project, what kind? any info at all...... Tell me exactly what I need from start to finish....
Thanks guys...... :cheers: :cool:
what sizes is the stock size.... also,, what size stud?
And do I need self aligning??????
[Modified by 1990CORVETTE, 7:55 PM 12/29/2003]
Thanks guys...... :cheers: :cool:
what sizes is the stock size.... also,, what size stud?
And do I need self aligning??????
[Modified by 1990CORVETTE, 7:55 PM 12/29/2003]
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: roller rocker question (1990CORVETTE)
In part it depends on what else you want to do with that L98.
But in general I suggest Comp. Cams parts:
-ProMagnum 1.6:1 RRs for 3/8" studs
-hardened pushrods
-hardened guide plates
-valve springs
-hardened locks (keepers)
-stock GM upper & lower valve seals
Your stock rockers are self-aligning and stud size is 3/8".
You will need to remove the studs to get rid of the stock non hardened guide plates so you might as well install hardened guide plates & pushrods and use the cheaper non self-aligning ProMagnum RRs.
You should also toss the stock tin oil shedders from atop the springs to lighten the valve train a little (these were not used on the LT1 engine).
If you later plan to do heads, cam, exhaust, intake and such you might want to use a little different valve train. In fact I would wait till after you chose a cam to do the valve train upgrades.
But in general I suggest Comp. Cams parts:
-ProMagnum 1.6:1 RRs for 3/8" studs
-hardened pushrods
-hardened guide plates
-valve springs
-hardened locks (keepers)
-stock GM upper & lower valve seals
Your stock rockers are self-aligning and stud size is 3/8".
You will need to remove the studs to get rid of the stock non hardened guide plates so you might as well install hardened guide plates & pushrods and use the cheaper non self-aligning ProMagnum RRs.
You should also toss the stock tin oil shedders from atop the springs to lighten the valve train a little (these were not used on the LT1 engine).
If you later plan to do heads, cam, exhaust, intake and such you might want to use a little different valve train. In fact I would wait till after you chose a cam to do the valve train upgrades.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 0
From: West Islip New York
Re: roller rocker question (65Z01)
In fact I would wait till after you chose a cam to do the valve train
upgrades.
upgrades.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque NM
Re: roller rocker question (65Z01)
[QUOTE]In part it depends on what else you want to do with that L98.
But in general I suggest Comp. Cams parts:
-ProMagnum 1.6:1 RRs for 3/8" studs (be sure you know if you are buying self aligning or not)
-hardened pushrods (usually .100" longer with RR's)
-hardened guide plates
-valve springs (I wouldn't even bother until you change cam/heads)
-hardened locks (keepers)
-stock GM upper & lower valve seals (teflon will require machining so the neoprene/stock would be a good alternative)
You will need to remove the studs to get rid of the stock non hardened guide plates so you might as well install hardened guide plates & pushrods and use the cheaper non self-aligning ProMagnum RRs. (i fyou go self aligning you can keep these or just replace them with a washer)
But in general I suggest Comp. Cams parts:
-ProMagnum 1.6:1 RRs for 3/8" studs (be sure you know if you are buying self aligning or not)
-hardened pushrods (usually .100" longer with RR's)
-hardened guide plates
-valve springs (I wouldn't even bother until you change cam/heads)
-hardened locks (keepers)
-stock GM upper & lower valve seals (teflon will require machining so the neoprene/stock would be a good alternative)
You will need to remove the studs to get rid of the stock non hardened guide plates so you might as well install hardened guide plates & pushrods and use the cheaper non self-aligning ProMagnum RRs. (i fyou go self aligning you can keep these or just replace them with a washer)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Re: roller rocker question (ZD1)
The only thing I would suggest in addition is 7/16" studs instead of 3/8ths. CompCams claims 4/10 HP increase (I'm supposing up top) due to increased valve train stability. Never saw a back to back dyno run to confirm this, but they can't hurt, are super easy to swap and inexpensive to boot.
Since you are buying RRs, I'd opt for 7/16's rockers, same price.
And, yes, be sure to check with the company that makes the RRs, some call for longer pushrods.
Be sure to check for interference too; retainer to seal; .060 between coils a full valve lift (although you can fudge that # a bit and run a bit tighter). I've run as tight as .035 with no problem; as long as you don't the valves; .060 is safe though.
Setting the lifter preload with the new rockers can be tricky if you're not familiar with doing it. Lots of guys have problems when it comes to that area.
Guys who work on engines a lot all have their favorite way of doing it, I'm no exception. I prepared a MSWord file that details how I do it; if you'd like I can send it to you.
Good luck; hope this helps.
Jake
Since you are buying RRs, I'd opt for 7/16's rockers, same price.
And, yes, be sure to check with the company that makes the RRs, some call for longer pushrods.
Be sure to check for interference too; retainer to seal; .060 between coils a full valve lift (although you can fudge that # a bit and run a bit tighter). I've run as tight as .035 with no problem; as long as you don't the valves; .060 is safe though.
Setting the lifter preload with the new rockers can be tricky if you're not familiar with doing it. Lots of guys have problems when it comes to that area.
Guys who work on engines a lot all have their favorite way of doing it, I'm no exception. I prepared a MSWord file that details how I do it; if you'd like I can send it to you.
Good luck; hope this helps.
Jake
