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O.K., my son is almost done with college, and it's my 85's turn to get some attention: don't want a used C5, don't drive enough to justify a C6. We've been thru a lot with it, it's still in beautiful shape, but it's been sitting the last year, awaiting a rebuild.
Besides it being pricey and not a good "value" for an '85 Corvette, does anyone know how an aluminum Bow Tie Block would work as the basis for a new TPI motor? Any information about issues such as accessory mounts, sensors, and of course engine mounts would be appreciated. My goal is a very lightweight, conservative 300-350hp smog legal and streetable motor in a car at or below 3000lbs. Thanks for any help or experience you can offer.
:steering:
It should work great, and take about 70 lbs off the front end of your car. (stock Iron blocks are about 160 lb) They make versions of the block that are made for wet sump oil systems, and have the oil filter mounting pad. The only thing that you will have to pay special attention to is the main bearing clearances. The aluminum block has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the crank does, therefore bearing clearances get larger as the engine warms up. Therefore you want to start with tighter than typical bearing clearances when it is cold. Finding slightly thicker bearings, and having them coated with an anti-friction coating is probably a good approch.
An aluminum block is probably the most expensive way there is to remove 80 pounds from your car. Aluminum heads, alone will cut 40-50 pounds. Your power goals are extremely conservative. That can easily be reached with a cam, headers some head work and some induction up grades. It appears that money is no object, but you could buy a spare 350 or better yet, 400 and build a very mild 383 or 406 for only a little more than that bare block. You could surpass your power goals with out even trying.
To answer your question, however, the Bowtie aluminum block should bolt in like the stocker. There may be some minor issues concerning things like a one or two piece rear main seal, roller cam, etc, but nothing abnormal or unsolvable. Good luck, and...
It'll bolt in and be REAL expensive. You might want to rethink this project and put the money eslewhere. Use an iron block but swap out to aluminum heads, lite crank, lite rods, pistons, stroke it out and install the superram system. Power and lightwieght.
These are great replies,thanks! I wouldn't say money is no object, but relative to private colleges costs, the $4k block is no biggie. I was assuming a switch to either GM or AFR aluminum heads, I want the motor to look pretty much stock, so Mini and Super rams don't fit the bill. The total weight loss should be around 120-130 lbs. I have to believe that much coming off the front of the car will make my stripper Z51 a joy to toss around on our WI backroads (as if it isn't already) and just overall be something really different. I may back off on the block if anyone raises some real technical problem.