OK, I have a few questions that I would like answered so I can get the most out of my car. Just for FYI my car is a 77 shark with the LT1 and 6 spd from a 92 swapped in.

Here are my questions.

1) Reverse Flow Cooling. At this time I have noticed my Temp Gauge does not work. now since it is a stock 77 gauge I am feeling it is the gauge itself. however if an Air Bubble got into the cooling system what is the best way to purge the system and refill with brandy new fluid?

1a) Is the sensor for the temp gauge the same as any other carb'd small block or does it run through/from the computer?

1b)Pressurized overflow tank. I am currently running the stock tank, but the previous owner gave me the pressurized tank to install and HIGHLY suggested it. Thoughts? opinions?

2) 160 deg thermostat. I have read the good and the bad on this and am wondering if I should go ahead and go this route or just adjust the angle/height of my radiator to make sure I get the proper airflow. (I also have 2 electric fans )

3) Tune up. What are the BASICS you all would recommend when I give my car a tune up? IE Best plugs, wires etc to use that won't require me to adjust the computer right away.

any other suggestions or comments? (Watch it vader ;) :lol: ) :cheers:

 

ok.. lets see here...


There are three places the stock LT1 purges (or can purge) air out of the system.. The first is the little screw on the top of the thermostat housing (bleed screw - thats the manual purge method). I've also heard the Throttle body has some purging effect.. but since I;ve bypassed mine I can't comment. Lastly, The pressurized reservoir is a critical part of the cooling system in the factory cars.. It also bleeds off air (as you'll not its the highest point in the system and also acts as a filler neck for the radiator..


the 160* stat is a huge discussion on its own and has been beat to death over here... some use it some dont.. I put it in and run it but i've noticed the heat comming out of the ducts at max heat is significantly lower than what it used to be!! Also, some people feel this causes premature cyl. wear.. I dont feel qualified to comment on the technical merits of that... I think the stock thremostat was 180* and the next time I flush and fill the system I will be putting it back in.. if you want the car to run cooler reprogram the computer chip to turn the fans on sooner... but keep in mind this will increase wear on the fan motors..

lastly, tunes ups... most people like the nippendenso plugs, the MSD 8.5 wires and coil.. However, I run the platnium AC Delco plugs (which it came form the factory with) along with factory wires and coil.. They fit in the factory wire looms and have passed the GM durability test.. either way I havent noticed any problems with them - which means to me they work great!


These are just my options.. and I hope they help!
:cheers:

 

What are these "wire looms" you speak of? :lolg:
Thanks all that information is VERY helpful and I will be also purchasing a Chiltons/Haynes manual for the 92 model year just for the engine and trans specs so I can be sure of what I am doing.

:cheers:

 

Here's a good primer for you to read:
http://www.theherd.com/articles/lt1_cool.html
http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm


If you want I can swing my 95 by your place, and you can take a look at the whole system.

BTW Congrats on finally getting a Vette! :cheers:

 

Drain all the fluid out and refill it if its been in there more than 2 years. Usually the way I purge is open the radiator cap, let her come up to tstat opening temp, and start adding coolant mixture when the level drops.

Never heard of a real reason to upgrade the overflow tank, other than one or two threads about the top coming off (not common at all). I would just replace the radiator cap with a new one and not worry about that.

New MSD 8.5mm wires, fuel filter, NGK TR55 plugs

Do not waste money on a Haynes Manual. The best you can buy is a GM Helm Manual, Chiltons is decent.

 

well the overflow tank is stock 1977 unit so upgrading really isn't what i would be doing , i would basically just be putting it to stock for the lt1.

where can i pick up the helm manual?? :cheers: :cheers:

 

just for reference here is a pic of my engine bay. As you can see the stock 77 overflow tank has seen better days. :D

 

helminc.com

 

:cheers:

 

http://www.helminc.com

1992 Corvette Shop Manual
Price: $90.00 In Stock
(English, Paper, ST36492)

More than 3000 pages of repair instructions written by General Motors, this is the original manual. It contains Diagnostic Information and Procedures, Schematics and Routing Diagrams, Component Locator, Repair Instructions, Description and Operation, Specifications, and Special Tools and equipment. Service information on HVAC, Body & Accessories, Restraints, Steering, Suspension, Driveline/Axle, Brakes, Engine and Transmission/Transaxle.

Note: GM Truck Owners, for model years 1996 and prior the service manual is available as a set (or kit) and also sold in sections (electrical & emissions, shop/service manual, unit repair/chassis manual). All three sections are needed for full coverage.
Description:
Instructions And Procedures For Routine Repair Adjustments Maintenance Work Diagnosis/Testing And Removal/Installation Of Parts For Various Vehicle Systems.


Also included with your purchase, and included in the above price.
(1) ST36492SUPP - 1992 Corvette Shop Manual Supplement

 

Too bad they don't just have the Engine and trans info , I'll probably end up with like 300 pages of useless paper. :lol:

 

Didn't see an answer to the first part of your post (and then I just kept typing)...

The analog temp gauge uses a single wire sender located between the #6 & #8 exhaust ports. If your wiring is such that you need the sender located on the driver's side, you can remove the plug between the #1 & 3# exhaust ports and locate a sender there. I don't believe there will be any issues with clearance. The temp sender doesn't feed any data to the computer. As such, I would recommend you buy a sender spec'd for your '77 and install it. The inoperative gauge may simply be a case of the gauge not matched to the sending unit.

Your overflow tank is not like the '92 fill reservoir that you received with your engine. The '92 fill reservoir is pressurized (as you mentioned) and is used to fill the system ('90 and up radiators have no cap, they're filled via the reservoir). If you install the '92 fill reservoir, you will still need an overflow tank (located in the forward right front facia cavity of C4s) for coolant expansion.

As mentioned before, you can bleed air from the coolant system by opening the small bleed valve located on the waterneck. When full, coolant will begin to dribble out of the valve. C4s used a fill reservoir because the '90 and up radiator sits low compared to the engine.

160* thermostat...hmmm...would you like to discuss religion or politics first? I run one, but it does take the engine a long time to warm up...except on track days :D

Tune up...I like Denso Iridium IT20 plugs. I've also had good luck with NGK platinum plugs. The only plugs I've Ever had problems with are stock AC Delco double platinum plugs. Both the factory originals and the replacements had the tiny platinum "pucks" that are bonded to the center electrode and the ground disappear in less than 30k miles...so much for being 100k mile plugs. For wires, I use 8mm Taylor Spiral Pro wires. You can get a set custom matched to the LT1 from Summit for ~$60 at last check and with just a little trimming they will fit the stock wire looms if you have them. Some install them into the looms without trimming, but the wires are pinched awful tight. A tune-up will not require computer tweaking unless someone had it custom tuned while the engine was in a VERY poor state of tune previously. A fresh fuel filter won't hurt either.