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Where can I possibly try to start troubleshooting this if I'm not intimately familiar with my '85's electrical system?
I posted this about a month ago and someone said that it was probably the ignition switch. I replaced it but it wasn't the problem, even though it seemed logical and then I found that the '85's ignition switch had a factory recall.
I was just driving along normally when it went dead as a doornail. I don't think it's the computer because the dash won't even turn on. My power seats/mirrors don't work. The battery has been tested and load tested, it's good. I have the car in a shop right now since I couldn't figure it out, and this guy is at a loss as well.
All fuses have been checked in the panel on the passenger side. Maybe there are more?
Anything else you can think of? I've been up under it and don't see any loose wires or corrosion.
Pull the driver gill panel and take the battery out. There is a whole mess of 12-gauge fusible links back there (red wire with a black bulge on them). I bet one of your main ones (like the one that feeds the 12v junction block to the right of the battery) has fried.
You probably have an intermittent connection between one of the battery cables to its lug that bolts onto the battery terminal. Clean both the cable lugs and battery terminals until they are bright and clean, then reconnect them with aftermarket brass battery terminal bolts that are 5/8" instead of the factory steel 5/16" bolts.
Pull the driver gill panel and take the battery out. There is a whole mess of 12-gauge fusible links back there (red wire with a black bulge on them). I bet one of your main ones (like the one that feeds the 12v junction block to the right of the battery)
has fried.
Pull the driver gill panel and take the battery out. There is a whole mess of 12-gauge fusible links back there (red wire with a black bulge on them). I bet one of your main ones (like the one that feeds the 12v junction block to the right of the battery) has fried.
Well guess what, it wasn't fusible links that are causing the problem. I have paid an electrician good money to go through it since I'm at a loss.
He doesn't know what the problem is exactly, but what he suspects the problem is is with the VATS module. He thinks it is completely blown. Does that sound feasible? That module is buried behind the dash I think, if I understood correctly what he was saying.
STILL? I had assumed this was fixed long ago. Damn! I thought Scorp had it with the fusable link suggestion. It has to be something pretty big to kill power to EVERYTHING. I wish you luck. Better hurry. The first T&T is 4/10 at RMR.
Check the quality of the ground cable to the frame. And from that frame connection there is a wire that goes to the end of the left head. Then check the electrical connection from the positive cable battery lug to the jump start bolt behind the battery. All current to the car (except the starter motor) goes through this wire. Also, check the electrical connection of the battery cables to the lug that bolts onto the battery terminal. You may have an open connection between the large cable and the lug. A quick test would be to firmly wiggle each cable at the battery connection.
Can you turn the headlights on? If you hit the brake pedal, do the tail lights illuminate?
I'm thinking it's the ignition stitch or the harness to it. Check all of the connections at the steering column.
Yes, the headlights will turn on and the brake light will illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed. The interior lights to the car will also turn on when the door is opened.
Also I will mention that when the key is just sitting in the ignition, the car's warning bell sounds and there is power to the cigarette lighter, but that's it. Everything else including the power seats are dead.
The mechanic that is helping me says it's a big problem, it *should* be easy to find and "the car doesn't like me."
All fusible links have been checked and they are good.
Ok, I'm 90% sure it's the ignition switch assembly or the harness to it. You need to get under the steering column and check all of the connectors and wires.
Ok, I'm 90% sure it's the ignition switch assembly or the harness to it. You need to get under the steering column and check all of the connectors and wires.
Does your mechanic have a service manual?
OK, I just called him and told him. He said he'll get back under there and look again (the whole dash is apart right now).
I have a HELM service manual which he is referencing, he's also been to the library to get some more detailed schematics.
Thanks a lot guys. I'm up to about $380 so far in this diagnosis.
I have great news to report. We finally found the problem, and it was a fusible link. Imagine that.
The link was down at the bottom of the firewall, reachable from only underneath the car, so I'm back in business!!! What caused it was simple decay of wires on one of the relays (the fuel pump one I believe). They are 18 years old and some of the plastic had cracked off and wires started touching. That'll do it every time.
Thanks again for all of your insight and help. You guys ROCK!!
That goodness, you found it! The fusible link, thing doesn't come as too big a surprise to some of us. Glad you got it, and thanks for reporting the solution. That sounds about right for a Corvette electrical problem...$400.00 labor, and $4.00 parts.
Drivers meeting for Summit ET Series, March 2, 6:00 PM, at the track. Street Legal Series March 3, same time, same place.